Stories from Jason: The Olympic Torch and An Older Sister’s Worry

 

The Olympic Torch Arrives Near Jason’s University 

 

         Jason’s email was full of excitement concerning the biggest event ever to hit his university town, Xining in Qing Hai Province: “Ouyun Huide Sheng Huo laile!  The Olympic Sacred Fire (Torch) is coming!”

            Granted, I expected his email to be full of news concerning his sister, who for over 2 weeks has been scheduled to have open heart surgery, but instead, I get news of the Olympic Torch:

 

            “I am so sorry that recently I didn’t have enough time to write to you,” Jason explained in his email.  “Now, I am quite excited that the Olympic Torch is coming tomorrow!   What big news.  I and my friends are busy preparing to welcome it, because we have never seen the Olympic flame.  Luckily, the place where the torch is shown is near our school.  We can even walk there.  It just takes about 10 minutes. Of course, I will take pictures.  If you like it, I am very glad to send you some.”

 

            Actually, I was quite interested to hear about  Jason’s experience with the Olympic torch.  Last week, excitement filled our city, Chengdu, after it was announced the torch route would be brought to Sichuan due to the earthquake.  From Aug. 3 to 5, it’s to make a run through Chengdu and then travel to some of the hardest hit disaster areas

            This should prove to be a very interesting sight to see. I’ve heard many stories about the nationalistic fervor the torch causes when it’s begun its journey throug China’s largest cities. One of my classmates, an American university student, told me she was in Shanghai when the torch passed.

            “Was it exciting?” I asked her.  “Did you join the crowds?”

            “No way!” she replied.  “It was more frightening than anything else.  People lined up by the thousands for 2 days along the main route.  They crammed toward the street and it was difficult for security to keep them back.  When the torch came, they went wild.  People were shouting “Go, China!” and “Welcome to Beijing!” while waving flags and pressing in closer to see the flame.  I videotaped it all from the 4th floor of a building.  Just one small thing and people could have been trampled to death.”

            She’s not exaggerating.  There have been deaths by stampedes of Chinese trying to get into famous international department stores or supermarkets on opening day.  It doesn’t take much for one person to trip and fall, resulting in tragedy as others surge forward.  Of course, we all expect crowds for exciting happenings in our own countries but when one-fifth of the world’s population is crammed into one country, the word “crowd” has a whole different meaning.

            When the telephone rang last night around 10:30 p.m, I thought it might be Jason calling with news of his Olympic torch experience, not to mention his sister.  Sure enough, that’s who it was.

            Jason certainly didn’t disappoint.

            He at once launched into his morning.  He and his roommates didn’t get much sleep as they anticipated the coming of the torch the next day.  With it being so near their school, Jason knew this opportunity was a golden one. He got up much earlier than any of his friends, grabbed a quick breakfast at 7 a.m. and was at the university’s main gate by 7:15, ready to head out for the 8:30 a.m. start of the relay.  He wasn’t sure what time it would reach his area but he wasn’t taking any chances of missing it, even if he’d have to be standing quite a while, crushed by the thousands of others likewise wanting to be a part of  this historic moment.

            But at the main gate, he and several others were met by the gate keepers who refused to let them out.  The gate was locked up tight and the men had strict orders to keep the university students on campus grounds.

            “It’s for your own safety,” they said.

            Most likely, this order came from the provincial office down to the city government who then reported to all schools not to allow students to attend.  The dangers involved in so many people gathering, plus the zealous exuberance of thousands upon thousands of young people, might  prove to be too much for torch security to handle.

            Naturally, this didn’t sit well with Jason or those around him, including two of his friends, whose English names are Alex and Mike.  There was some argument involved but it was useless as the guards weren’t about to let anyone through.

            Being a resourceful lot, the three guys walked along the length of the school’s high wall that enclosed the campus until they found a place they could crawl over.  Jason and Alex were quick but Mike wasn’t quick enough.  One of the campus watchmen grabbed him before he could scramble after the others. He was sent back to his dormitory room but not reported, which was kind as he could get in a lot of trouble for breaking school rules.

              Jason and Alex felt sorry for Mike but he was just too slow.  His tough luck.  They, on the other hand, gleefully ran to where the torch would be passing.

            As it turned out, Mike was able to watch the relay after.  Jason later found out thousands of university students had stormed the school’s locked main entrance, wanting to see the torch pass.  There was nothing the guards could do but open the gates and let them out.

            Jason and Alex ran along with the torch runners, even if at a far distance from the street where it was routed. Just too many people to come anywhere near it, including very tight security to keep people back.  Everyone was shouting and cheering, giving him a great feeling of unity among his country’s people. 

            After buying two Olympic torch T-shirts and a few other souvenirs, he returned back to his dormitory where he and his roomies shared their experiences of the day’s jubilation.

 

An Older Sister’s Worry

 

            “So that’s my first news,” Jason said after his 15 minutes of story-telling.  “But I have another thing to share about my sister.”

            Then the exuberance went out of his voice.

            “I don’t know but my sister has a problem,” he began.

            First, she’d waited 2 years for her family to save and borrow the over $7,000 needed for her heart operation.  Then she’d waited 3 weeks due to the earthquake.  After that, she’d spent a  week in the hospital until she was told the equipment needed had to be ordered.  And recently, she’s spent 2 weeks at home doing nothing but worry and fret.  It was just too much for this poor young woman to handle anymore. 

              When the doctor called yesterday, telling her they were ready and to come right away, she refused to go.

             According to Jason, his sister has been living at home and fighting with his parents over a lot of trivial matters.  They’ve had to work part-time jobs in factories, meaning they haven’t been home much to take care of her.  She feels abandoned, hopeless, scared, frustrated and worried. 

            “She says no one cares about her,” Jason said.  “I don’t know why she says this!   My parents are doing everything but she won’t go.  She says she refuses to leave the house.    We all try to persuade her.  The money is there now. I don’t know what’s wrong with her.  Of course, we all love her and care about her!”

            I guess there was a huge argument with her parents both begging her to reconsider and begging Jason to convince her via a phonecall that she must go to the hospital. 

            The doctors have said without the operation, she has about 10 years left at best.  I think her fear in having this done is so great that she’s decided to opt for not doing anything.   She’s been mentally prepared for too long, with too many disappointments happening again and again, to stoically bounce back and have the same thing happen for (seemingly) the millionth time: another delay, another return home, another anxious wait.   

            Of course, trying to explain that to family and friends, when perhaps she herself doesn’t understand her true feelings, is virtually an impossible task.  

            She’s also not being very Chinese in all of this, which makes everyone confused as to why she is acting this way. Too many people have worked hard to help her.  Her duty as a daughter and a grateful recipient of such sacrifice by others is to have the open heart surgery and forget about her own feelings in the matter.   Her family is losing face:  First, among concerned doctors who are being overly generous in giving her so much of their time and effort to make her well; secondly, among the many friends and extended family members who loaned  the money.  From a cultural standpoint, it’s just not a good situation for a Chinese person to be in.

            I suggested Jason contact her best friend to at least talk to his sister.  She obviously is angry with the family and won’t listen to anything they have to say.  A best friend will have a different effect on her. Perhaps she can even get off of work and accompany her with her mother to the capital city hospital.  It would help to calm the tension by having a third party present to keep things in check.

            As it stands, I am still awaiting Jason’s call this evening about what finally has happened. 

           As a Christian, I can pray.  I can pray for her to be guided to decide what is best for her, and I can pray for her family to have understanding in her decision.  

             It will take a great deal of courage on everyone’s part to come to terms with whatever lies in the future for our Jason’s older sister.  Please keep them in your thoughts as they go through a difficult family time.

 

            From Chengdu, hoping your day is full of “Ping An!” (Peace)   

                       

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“How’s Your Chong Wu ?”

 

            “Pet” is not a word in Chinese a language learner would know unless he or she had one. 

            When I first acquired Little Flower as my pet, I had to look up the word so I could tell people she was mine.  Imagine my surprise when I found out the literal translation of the Chinese characters for “pet”:  “chong” (spoiled) and “wu” (animal) which becomes “chong wu,” or spoiled animal.

            Talk about hitting the nail on the head!

            How many of us pet owners joke that our animals are sometimes treated better than we treat ourselves or even our own children.  They get special food, special toys, and special health care.   They get walks, playtime, bed and couch privileges, and treats.  They get attention and cuddling, feeding and grooming.  If we are truly responsible, loving owners, then chong wu certainly describes our pets to a T.

            My little dog, Xiao Hua (Little Flower), is certainly no exception.   

            My students at Luzhou Vocational and Technical College have already proven that.  Visits to my campus apartment were supposed to be to get to know the foreign teacher better and practice language skills.  Instead, my college kids came to visit the dog.  They brought her presents for Christmas and her birthday.  They gave her treats off the table.  They kept her busy by happily tossing her toys about for her to fetch.  And they spoke more English to my dog than they ever did to me.

            “Little Flower, do you want a piece of candy?”

            “Little Flower, go get your toy!”

            “Little Flower, do you have a boyfriend?”

            The last always threw everyone into fits of laughter, but even more so when LF landed herself on a male student’s lap, wagged her tail and gave him a big lick right on his face.

            “You see?” the girls would say. “Little Flower has good taste.  She chooses the most handsome boy in the room!”

            “No, no Little Flower! You are wrong,” another male student would reply.  I am the most handsome.  Come here!  Come here!”

            Then he’d entice her over with a piece of candy.

            Ah, the fickleness of females.

            Of course, my chong wu has more stuff than she needs.

            Little Flower has a dozen different winter outfits but she refuses to wear a single one. I can get them on her but then she won’t budge.  Her ears flatten and her tail dives between her legs.  Nothing I do will get her to go outside until the clothes come off. 

            This was especially a problem during the past December to February, when our temperatures dipped to a rare 30 degrees for over a week.

              When these chilly months hit, LF shivered, shook and quaked while taking a walk.  It was embarrassing because all the Chinese glared at me, the bad chong wu owner. 

            “Your dog is too skinny,” they frowned.  “She needs clothes.  Look!  She’s shivering!  She’s cold!”

            In defense of myself, I replied, “I know she’s cold, but she hates to wear clothes.  I have lots of clothes but she won’t wear them.”

            Naturally, they didn’t believe me. 

            LF looked so pitiful that their next move was to give her whatever they happened to be eating:  a piece of cake, a cookie, meat scraps from their dinner bowls.  The shop keepers around our neighborhood started grabbing things off their shelves.  They opened up wrapped, ready-to-eat hotdog sticks when they saw us coming.  These they gave her for free, wanting to fatten her up.

             No doubt about it.  During the winter months in Chengdu, Little Flower was definitely the happiest spoiled animal around.  

            But now it’s another chong wu who’s getting all the attention.  It’s Xiao Gui-gui (she-ow Gway-gway, or Little Ghost) who has moved into the “spoiled animal” spot in the apartment complex. 

            My neighbors are always keen to see Little Ghost.  They ask for me to bring her outside so they can hold her and inspect her progress.  They gently pass her from hand to hand, play with her on the sidewalk and feed her bits of dried fish.  They laugh over her kitten antics and admire her cleanliness.  After having such a hard beginning to her life, deserted on the street when barely a week old and struggling with health issues for weeks after that, she deserves to be spoiled a bit.

            And Little Flower?

            I wouldn’t feel too sorry for her.  She still gets her fair share of special chong wu care on our daily walks.  A visit to the International Food Store yesterday gave her plenty of Frisbee chase time with the staff who then sent her home with a belly full of blue cheese chunks, bits of gouda and shavings of cheddar.

            Yeah, that’s my chong wu for you, living up to her Chinese label:  “spoiled animal.”

           

            From Chengdu, here’s wishing you (and your special chong wu) “Ping An!” (Peace)

           

 

 

 

Posted in Chengdu Life: Pets in China | Leave a comment

A Rainy Graduation Sunday

 
 

            The all-night rain and constant drizzle for most of the day gave Sichuan University a wet day for sending off their graduates.

            The graduation ceremonies had to be moved from outside to in after the first group of graduates had commencement this morning.  I was very impressed by the speed of the campus workers. They had the huge stage moved inside in just 3 hours, including hundreds of decorative flower pots filled with carnations.  These were impressively arranged on  the auditorium stage floor to welcome in the afternoon graduates.

            I attended the afternoon ceremonies, from 2 p.m. to 3:30 p.m., although I did go over earlier in the morning to check out the rain situation. 

            As I had expected, there were very few families present among the 5,000 + graduates who filled the hall.  Each college or major followed after a sign held high which announced who they were:  Chemistry department, Law School, Foreign Languages Department, Management Department, Economics Department and so on bobbed through the crowded rows to find the proper section.  It was a bit of a chaotic jumble getting everyone inside and into their proper seats, which took an hour.

             A few squatters had to be kicked out of prominent center aisles, which miffed them a bit.  One was a father videotaping everything.  Despite being harried by the school organizer to move, he wouldn’t.  Thus he and his wife sat, quite pleased with their vantage point, while being sandwiched between thousands of gowned Chinese graduates. 

              I must say it was organized getting people inside on such short notice.  Plus the move indoors proved a good one.  Once inside, the rain began yet again.

            One very sweet moment in the ceremony  was after the 20 leaders and distinguished professors filed in to sit alongside the head podium at their long table.  After each person was announced, he or she stood to the applause and cheers of the students.  The person who received the most was an elderly woman with white hair who basically brought down the house.  I have no idea who she was but she obviously is a beloved professor  of many students.

            Below, you will find a photographic journey of the event.

           

On a rainy Sunday in Chengdu, here’s wishing you “Ping An!” (Peace)

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Preparations for Sunday’s Graduation

 
 

            The Sichuan University campus has been buzzing with activity all week.

            Everywhere LF and I turned on our walks around the campus, we met with clusters of students pulling out from carrying bags their graduation cap-and-gown ensembles.  Classmates posed together under trees, along walkways, in front of pagodas and statues, and on benches near the school’s flowering lotus ponds.  The big event of graduation was coming and they’d worked hard to achieve it.

            The traditional cap and gown of the West was just recently adopted in China.  It is never used for high school or small 3-year colleges that issue certificates but mostly for those receiving a university degree.
            Ten years ago, these graduation garments were fond only in cheap photography shops around universities or small colleges.  Students would make appointments, wear the shop’s graduation gowns and pose in various places on the school grounds.  The photographer followed them about and directed their poses.  The number of gowns, however, was usually around 2 or 3 so students had to take turns wearing them.

            Even today, in small 3-year institutions such as Luzhou Vocational and Technical College, graduating students wanting special pictures still have to  borrow such clothes from the little photography lady across from the main gate.

            But it seems in prestigious educational institutions  such as Sichuan University, the graduation ceremony modeled on the West’s is now a given. 

            Today’s afternoon had LF and me walking to the sport’s stadium where we found our MA and PhD graduates sprinkled throughout the lawns.  Taking turns, they gathered for pictures and poses for tomorrow’s big event.  There are two ceremonies taking place.  One from 8 – 9 a.m. and another  from 2:00 – 3:30 p.m.  No one seemed to know about the other ceremony, only their own, so it was difficult for me to determine which ceremony was for who. 

            Since I have the times, it should be an interesting venture to attend at least one, which will be held on the sports field.  Already, the stage is set with the graduating students standing (not sitting as there are no chairs) on the field itself.  I’m sure it will be a long wait but in China, no one thinks much about comfort of anyone except the VIPs.  Of course, they have very comfortable cushioned chairs lined up behind the podium.

            As I stopped to take pictures, students were quick to grab me for their own photo memories.  I, in turn, was able to take entire group shots with their digital cameras or cell phones without having anyone missing from the picture. 

            One very nice Chinese touch for the gowns is that there are no zippers to close them up but the traditional butterfly buttons.  It presented an eye-catching Asian flare as compared to the boring Western style. 

            The students also told me their graduation attire was loaned for free by their departments.  No one had to buy them or rent them, which I thought was nice.  I’m not sure what would happen if you lost them, didn’t return them or wanted to buy them.  I did ask several times but no one seemed to know the answer to that question.

            Saturdays on campus haven’t been this lively since the earthquake brought out thousands with their tents. 

            Since we were in the area, LF and I strolled a bit farther and ended up near the basketball courts where a rather large crowd had gathered.  Along either side of the small campus road, about 20 people had laid out a number of items on the sidewalk.  As LF and I cruised down the row, I noticed a majority of these young people were selling books and other items.  I had found the weekend campus flea market where students sold their used textbooks and dormitory things they no longer wanted.  A battered phone, slippers, clothes and outdated magazines were just among a few things offered up on their tarps.  Also present was new merchandise, such as sport’s socks, T-shirts and a pile of women’s purses, which students were selling for shop owners as a part-time job.   It was an interesting array of old and new and was drawing quite a few  interested buyers.

            The weather today being  hazy, sticky, and very humid sent LF and me home after an hour of walking about.  I’d have stayed longer to cruise the flea market road but LF was ready to go home.

            Tomorrow, however, I’ll stay longer for the big day.  Graduation will bring out thousands of students along with great photo ops.   I’m not expecting too many relatives to make a showing, though. Chinese families will be from far away and most likely won’t attend.  In China, I’ve found that special ceremonies and performances are not usually attended by family but by the participants themselves and their friends.  It’s not about others but about those participating, mostly meant as a memory for them, not a show-piece for proud parents.

 

            So be sure to watch this space for reports tomorrow about a Chinese university graduation!

 

From Chengdu, here’s wishing you “Ping An!” (Peace)

 

 

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Publication of Essay: Minutes of Mourning

 
               Those interested might want to check out my essay, printed today in the Home Forum of the Christian Science Monitor, a well-known international newspaper.
                If you are looking for accompanying pictures, please go to my album list where you will find "Our Minutes of Mourning, Sichuan University."  These follow the story.
 
             "Finding Unity in Three Minutes of Silence" by Cornelia (Connie) M. Wieck
 
 
 
              Enjoy, and "Ping An!" (Peace)
Posted in From Chengdu, China Earthquake | Leave a comment

Pregnancy in China: The Wait of 40 Days and 40 Nights

 
 

           Li Xuan Qi ( whose English name is Mary) was looking longingly at the huge fruit basket I  brought over to her home.  This sinful temptation sat on the table, its contents comprised of crisp Asian pears, juicy tangerines, tasty apples, and plump purple grapes.  I could imagine her ecstasy in digging into that basket and savoring every fruity bite, but she had yet to wait three more days . . . three more days of the 40-day “sentence” placed upon her by the customs of China for new mothers.

            Despite China’s great leaps and bounds in Western approaches to everything from industrialization to lifestyle, some age-old customs die hard.  One of these concerns pregnancy, and it was this particular visit to Mary’s home that certainly was proving to be an eye-opener for me when it comes to China.

            Mary (a high school English teacher) is the wife of  my good friend, “Marty” Li, an English teacher at the vocational college I taught at in Luzhou.  The couple had been married for 3 years and just had their first child, a healthy little girl.  

             The excitement and joy of Marty at having a little girl was apparent from day one when he announced at our English departmental meeting that his wife had just given birth.  For him, the birth marked the happiness of Daddy shopping for clothes, toys, baby blankets and what-not.  For the new mother, however, the arrival of the little one began an agonizingly long imprisonment on the fourth floor of their bare, dank and stuffy concrete-walled faculty apartment. 

According to Chinese custom, new mothers are to begin a long internment in the confines of their home after giving birth.  For 40 days, they are not allowed to go out.  They can’t eat fruit or certain vegetables.  No cold foods are allowed, only hot ones, and those are limited to bland chicken and fresh eggs, boiled in broth.  Mary couldn’t fully wash herself, only sponge off, and under no circumstances was she to wash her hair for fear of catching a cold.  Her attire was that of a flannel cap (worn at all times), flannel PJs and warm winter slippers.   Late August temperatures had soured into the 90’s.  Their small flat had no air conditioner but even if it did, I doubt she’d have been allowed to use it.  The Chinese don’t like continuously cooled rooms due to electricity costs.  They also believe it’s not good for the health to be constantly coming and going from one extreme temperature to another. Sickness will result.

Thus Mary had to remain in her invalid-style state, warmly enclosed in clothing certainly meant for chillier weather, and suffer under a sizzling Sichuan heatwave. 

When I first visited Marty and Mary to see the new baby girl, it was after I had returned from America for the summer holidays.  I had no idea about the customs she was patiently enduring until I arrived.  Under the watchful eye of her mother and mother-in-law (two women from small towns), she was being well cared for.  Both were diligently making sure traditions were not broken.  Despite being a modern young woman with a high education, Mary decided it was better to please the new grandmothers by following their commands rather than annoying them by doing as she pleased. 

As many dutiful Chinese children, she and her husband borrowed 2 beds for the customary long stay of the grandmothers to look after the new mother and baby for the 40-day period.  Forty days is required to make sure the new mother remains, if not happy, at least healthy so that she will have a strong, uneventful recovery.  

Years ago, when Chinese women’s lives were filled with constant hard work under very poor conditions, these 40 days were a blessing.  Renewing a mother’s strength was of utmost importance for her survival.  But with advanced medical technology and the comforts of today’s modern world, one does wonder if this tradition will eventually be adjusted to meet the needs of today’s busy, working Chinese mom or done away with all-together.        

While watching the grandmothers fuss over Mary and baby, I wondered how this poor woman could stand it.  She was not allowed to do anything.  No cooking, cleaning or even performing basic duties in looking after the baby.  Watching T.V. was acceptable for a bit but her eyes would not be good, according to her mother, so it was best to limit that.  Working on the computer was likewise something to be monitored.   Cell phones are owned by everyone in China but for new mothers, those have to be put aside with the rumors that they cause cancer.   Why it was OK for her to use them at any other time in her life except for those 40 days was beyond me. My guess is on that point, there was no arguing with Mom and mother-in-law.  If they said no cell phone use, then no cell phone use it was.

For the most part,  Mary just lived in boredom.  She took numerous naps and watched Grandma Li constantly rocking the child,  Grandma Fu changing diapers, or  Marty (the proud papa) freely coming and going  from their apartment while she was stuck inside.

            The true pampering period for Chinese mothers takes place during pregnancy, when women  begin their 3 to 4-month maternity leaves six weeks prior to delivery.  Pushy passengers on overly crowded buses are quick to part way for a pregnant citizen and offer up their seat for her.  Open-air market sellers hold back the best of meats and vegetables and cheerfully offer these to their pregnant patrons.  I have often seen some sellers refusing to take money from the soon-to-be mother.  Instead, they thrust produce into her hands, give advice or suggestions about preparing these for her health and, with a kind smile, wave her away.   And when it comes to attire, anything goes.  It’s not unusual to see women  at different stages of pregnancy, dressed in floaty nightgowns, fuzzy slippers and pajamas, strolling down sidewalks, shuffling through grocery store aisles, or shopping in department stores.              

            Soon-to-be moms know to enjoy such freedom and special treatment before birth as it’s not coming afterwards.

            As I watched Mary sitting on the couch, I thought these last 3 days must seem like an eternity.  

             “Can’t you just forget the last few days and cheat?” I asked. “Surely leaving now can’t cause any problems.”

            Mary hesitated.  She eyed the grandmothers, one rocking the baby and another starting to prepare yet another wearisome chicken and egg soup meal for  lunch.  Marty was on the little balcony where 6 live chickens were clucking and pecking about in fowl filth.  The grandmothers had insisted that keeping live chickens to fatten them up is better than getting the scrawny ones in the market.  Marty’s duty each day was to kill one, which was not his favorite thing to do. 

            After observing the activities around her for a bit longer, Mary returned to my question about disregarding the last days of her confinement.

            “No,” she said.  “It’s best to follow the customs.”

            I couldn’t help but ask the next question.

           “So when your daughter is having a baby, years from now, will you insist she follow these same traditions?”

            Mary was quick to respond.

            “Of course,” Mary replied, “my daughter is free to do as she wishes.” 

            I nodded my approval, thinking, “Ah!  A truly modern Chinese woman.  Good for you!”

            Then Mary continued.

            “But . . . . maybe I will advise her that some old customs are more important than new ones.”

            In other words, the answer was “Yes.”

           

From Chengdu,  wishing you “Ping An!” (peace) for the end of the week.

 

AS ALWAYS, REMINDER THAT EARTHQUAKE RELIEF FUNDS NEEDED

 

United Methodists:  UMCOR Advance #982450,  International Disaster Response, China Earthquake

 Others:  The Amity Foundaiton (www.amityfoundation.org)

 

 

 

 

           

Posted in Tales from Sichuan's Yangtze Rivertown, Luzhou | Leave a comment

My Favorite Walking Route, Jinxiu Xiang (Spendid Lane)

 
 

           After several days of wickedly hot weather, with everyone sizzling under a blazing sun, a bit of rain last night has relieved us of the heat from Chengdu’s previous afternoons.  Finally, Little Flower and I are able to take a pleasant stroll outside, protected by overcast skies with a cool breeze blowing and temperatures calmed to the 70s.

            Today proved especially delightful as we were able to finally take a turn down my favorite little side road, Jinxiu Xiang, translated as Splendid Lane. 

            This narrow xiang, connecting one busy city street to another, is one of the few around us that offers what I call scenic shade and a traditional feel.  Tall trees line either side of this special walking route.  They create a canopy of golden yellow during the fall, of vibrant green during the early summer.  It is one of the few streets I have ever known here that offers a seasonal variety and flavor vastly different from any other. 

            I was lucky enough to first visit the little street during the autumn. Sichuan is not known for having a gorgeous fall due to the warmish temperatures year round.  Leaves tend to drop still green or hang on throughout the winter, turning brittle and an ugly brown. But Splendid Lane  has a magical quality to it that douses its tall, woodsy guardians into oceans of color. 

            Last October, I stumbled upon this sidestreet while taking LF on a shortcut back home.  The beauty of the place dazzled me, making me dash back to my apartment for my camera.  Nor was I the only one who appreciated this spot.  

            Day after day, for over a month, many of us enjoyed the golden array of leaves above our heads along this particular street.  Autumn had indeed come to Chengdu, if only to one small speck in the city.

             The ceiling of yellow brought out walkers and photographers alike.  Those wielding cameras, professional and novice, were always seen scanning for that special, unique shot, the one that might land them an award winning photo or best represent the true splendor of the moment. 

            Tripods went up. Lenses extended.  Stances set.

            It was fun to watch people so enthused about a little stretch of fall which rarely presented itself in this sort of climate.  For me, an Illinoisian, it gave a nostalgic feeling of home.

            I think I can honestly say the autumn endeared me to this place.  It’s been my favorite walking route ever since.

             So today, when cool temperatures finally brought us out of apartment hiding, LF and I found ourselves once again being able to take a quiet walk down our favorite shortcut home. 

            The sky was threatening a light summer storm but entering Splendid Lane, LF and I had little fear of getting wet.  The green leaves above arched inward, shielding us from any showers that might come.

              Last year, we were able to walk the entire street with not a single parked car along the curbside.  Sadly, not so now.  Privately owned cars by the upper middle class are allowed to line one side.  A nearby attendant collects parking fees of  5 yuan (70 cents) for daytime hours and 10 yuan ($1.40) for night.  It somewhat ruins what we had once experienced before. China’s economic success has brought contented happiness for the “haves” but not a whole lot for the “have nots”. How sad, too, that it’s Nature who suffers most.  Increased petrol use, noise pollution and smelly exhaust fumes from vehicles are a few of the worst consequences.  Lining once quiet, pretty streets with unattractive cars is another.  

            Despite the parking, our shortcut home is still a pleasant one.  Mostly, it’s the bustling of the residents and their businesses that make it so.

             There are two mahjong parlors which were once apartments, now converted for money-making ventures by the locals.  For 2 yuan a player (30 cents), anyone can sit at the mahjong table for half a day and play (i.e., gamble) to heart’s content.  Tea is for free.  In the steamy heat of July and August, an air-conditioned playing room is also available for a higher price of 5 yuan (70 cents) per person a half day.  And for 60 yuan ($8.60), you  can rent the entire air-conditioned room from 9 a.m. to after midnight.  This sometimes happens when friends get together, maybe several visiting from out-of-town, and they wish to relax and chat while having something to do to pass the time.  These family-run mahjong parlors offer just the thing for the neighborhood:  cheap entertainment, nearby access and support of local businesses.

            On our walk, LF and I passed both parlors with one of the owners inviting me  for a sit at her sidewalk mahjong table, yet to be rented.  Across the street from us, a line of nice furniture was positioned out in the open. On the concrete was also laid out two wardrobes, a baby stroller, a printer and a computer screen.  The owner explained to me this is a regular drop-off point for anyone wishing to sell stuff if they move or buy new.  She pointed to a posted sign which announced what items were acceptable and could be placed in this area for selling.  A number was given to call if you were interested.   

            I eyed the used merchandise before me.  The wardrobes and printer didn’t look so great but the heavy wooden couch set with cushions was very enticing. 

            “Do you want to buy?” those sitting around eagerly asked me.  “Cheap!”

            I already have enough stuff as it is.  And I’ll be moving in another two months so . . .  sorry, no thanks.

            After about 10 minutes of chatting, it was time to move on.  LF was getting antsy and I was in need of a bottle of water so I headed to one of two nearby tiny convenience stores that hugs the street.  Grandma was out with grandbaby, giving me a good excuse to use my camera.  Grandparents are only too happy to have their little ones fawned over.  

            The man tending the shop had a comfy set-up.  He was playing mahjong with his buddies out in front.  Their boisterous exuberance in the game had gathered several onlookers leisurely walking by. 

            Obviously, no one had much to do on a pleasantly cool Thursday afternoon other than take it easy by playing mahjong or strolling side streets, like the dog and me.

            On Splendid Lane, our only industrious worker happened to be an older woman positioned behind her ancient, foot-pedaled sewing machine.  She was carefully hemming the pants of a customer who perched on a stool to wait.

             It didn’t take long for the job to be done.  After a careful inspection, her pleased customer handed over 2 yuan (30 cents).  The seamstress then picked up another item from her nearby table and began yet again on another project. 

            “My mother usually fixes my clothes,” I told her, “but she’s in America.  Young people don’t often know how to do that.  Are you here every day?” 

            My sewing machine expert smiled.

            “Yes, every day,” she replied.

            “Can I bring you a few clothes tomorrow?”   

            Of course, she agreed.  It’s good to have the business of a foreigner.  It makes a Chinese person appear more skilled and prestigious, especially with bystanders looking on, which they were. 

            Before I knew it, the end of Splendid Lane had come, all too soon for me. 

            A day like this is a rare one.  The steamy Sichuan summer is already knocking at the door, ready to drop in on us at any moment.   The air will be stifling and heavy, causing us to imprison ourselves inside.  The canopy of leaves will wilt. Our shortcut will be empty of residents and look a bit worn out and used.

            But for today, it’s at its best, proving to be a worthy walk and a cherished memory — 

our Splendid Lane, Jinxiu Xiang.

           

            From Chengdu, here’s sending you  “Ping An!” (Peace) for your day.

REMINDER:  EARTHQUAKE RELIEF FUNDS STILL NEEDED

 

For United Methodists:   UMCOR Advance #982450,  International Disaster Response,

                                           China Earthquake

 

Others:  The Amity Foundation (www.amityfoundation.org)

 

Posted in Uncategorized | 1 Comment

Singing in a Chinese Choir

            

             For many years, my mother was choir director of our smalltown United Methodist Church.  I, being her daughter, was one of her most faithful choir members.  From childhood to adulthood, I joined the many voices under the direction of my mom.  Rarely did I miss practice, and never did I question her expertise in guiding into unity our diverse vocal qualities.  It was because of her that I gained the confidence to join college, community and religious singing groups wherever my journeys led me.   

             But in Mainland China, my confidence as a choir member balked.  After teaching English as a foreign language for quite a few years in this Asian country, I never managed to gain enough courage to sing in a Chinese choir. 

            The language is too difficult.  

            The singing style is not the same. 

            The melodies are so alien! 

            These are the excuses I gave myself.  But more than anything, I was concerned about fitting in.  Our cultural backgrounds were so different.  Could an American truly feel comfortable singing in a Chinese choir?  I didn’t think so. 

           Yet last year, in Sichuan’s Yangtze rivertown Luzhou where I taught English for a number of years, I found myself for several Sundays in the Luzhou Protestant Church, not just as a congregation member but a bit more.  I stood in my flowing white choir robe and satiny red stole, held high my pink music folder and belted out anthems just as joyfully as my fellow Chinese choir members.  

            It was actually a friend’s visit that led me to participate in the choir.  I had been attending worship services for three years at the city’s Protestant church.  I knew the pastor, the pianist, the choir members and even the director.  All of them had encouraged me to sing as a choir member, but I had only smiled.  When Brian arrived, however, he mentioned his one great wish in visiting China was to sing with a Chinese choir.  As his hostess and a church attendee, I felt obligated to lead the way.   Beth, my teaching colleague at our small Chinese college, decided to tag along as well.

            I was a bit concerned about the reaction of the choir when three foreigners suddenly appeared at Friday night’s practice.  Would they stare?  Would they shy away?  Would they be apprehensive?  

            I needn’t have worried.  Our entrance into the small sanctuary brought on a round of applause and cries of delight.  Director Li scurried to find us music.  Members welcomed us with warm greetings, then tugged us into the appropriate choir sections:  I with the sopranos, Beth with the altos, and Brian with the tenors and basses.

            From the moment we began, I felt right at home. Young seminary student Jin led us in warm-up scales.  Coughs, hacks and throat clearings ensued before our shaky notes finally materialized.   We sounded deadly.  To raise our spirits, Jin bounced here and there with enthusiastic energy.  She gracefully waved her arms in circles above her head.  I considered it her attempt to visually support our consistently flat notes.  Director Li stood to the side, trying not to grimace.

          Our first number was a familiar Western hymn tune, although listening to our pianist and the other choir members, I was hard-pressed to pinpoint it.  A majority of the members couldn’t read music.  I, on the other hand, could read music but not all the written Chinese characters.  Soprano Yang, sitting next to me, quickly took me under her wing.  We whispered through several verses.  She carefully sounded out the Chinese characters I didn’t know and I wrote them down phonetically.  I noticed Beth and Brian doing the same with the help of others from their sections.  Director Li tolerantly ignored our mutterings, something I so often remember my mom doing with her more chatty singers.

            Progressing onward, we came to Sunday’s anthem.  That first run-through brought back such nostalgic memories:  sopranos shrieking, altos searching, tenors hesitating, and basses bellowing.   I was always quite adept at reading my mom during such horrific choir moments as this one.  Director Li was no different.  I detected a cringe, a wince, a strained smile and a hopeless slump.  Our eclectic “Amen!” at the end so inspired the accompanist that she came crashing down on a creative chord.    

            Silence followed.

            Our choral leader searched for something to say, but a choir member beat him to it.

            Bu hao (bad),” one of the men offered.

            Hen bu hao (very bad),” another added.

            The entire choir then erupted into a heated discussion of what was wrong, who was wrong, where it had gone wrong and why.  Everyone, including myself, felt compelled to share. 

            We created such a din that Director Li had some difficulty pulling us back to order. We spent the rest of the evening repairing the anthem’s fixable parts.  The rest we left to God.

            I wish I could say that everyone sang well two days later at Sunday morning’s service.  No one did.  All the same, Director Li had kind words to say. 

            The members had done their best and that was what mattered. 

           Before leaving the church that Sunday, Beth, Brian and I were approached again and again by our fellow singers.    

           Are you coming to practice this Friday?

          Can you teach us some English songs?

          Will you sing with us for worship next week?

         At that moment, I realized all my previous fears and anxieties about fitting in had been utterly ridiculous.  How often cultural revelations come with new experiences, and although mine took three years, better late than never.

 

            From Chengdu, as always,  "Ping An!" (Peace)

 

REMINDER OF EARTHQUAKE RELIEF FUNDING STILL NEEDED

 

United Methodists:   UMCOR Advance #982450,  International Disaster Response, China Earthquake

Others:  www.amityfoundation.org

 

 

 

 

 

Posted in Luzhou: Yangtze Rivertown Stories | Leave a comment

My Family’s Chinese Immigrant, Old Bean

 

My parents have been hosting a Chinese immigrant that was sent from China 15 years ago by a good friend of mine.

            Lao Dou (Old Bean) came to my American family as an unexpected guest.

             I was leaving Nanchang, China, after 3 years of teaching English at Jiangxi Normal University.  My good friend, Mr. Wu, was seeing me off at the train station. 

            “I will send something for your father,” the elderly Wu had said, showing me a small brown packet.  The contents shifted and rattled mysteriously.  

“I will send in the mail,” Wu explained.  “Please tell him to look for them.”

            Sure enough, several weeks later, Mr. Wu’s packet arrived.  My father carefully opened the stained, brown envelope they had come in.  Inside, he found a number of seeds wrapped around a thin piece of paper.  On this, Mr. Wu had painstakingly written in English: “I send you Lao Dou (Old Bean), which I grow in my garden every year.”  He then gave detailed instructions on when and how to plant this Chinese vegetable.

           The first year Old Bean joined our backyard community, war erupted.  My father had crammed him in among his prized Big Boy tomatoes and a battle ensued.  Both vied for ownership of the metal stakes, their vines choking one another in an intense twining match.  Eventually, they spilled into my mother’s ground cover, the Japanese ribbon grass.   As the summer progressed, there seemed to be no end to the fight for land dominance.   Lao Dou’s foot-long beans torpedoed the tomato vines, the Big Boy tomatoes bombed the Japanese ribbon grass and the ribbon grass slashed at the two like a well-trained samurai warrior.  Then, too, my parents weren’t happy with each other.  My mother blamed my father for the chaotic mess, and my father criticized my mother for her hostile ground cover.    It was a summer of great conflict and no resolution.

            The second year, cultural sensitivity took root.  Old Bean received his own plot, the Big Boys became a close neighbor and the Japanese ribbon grass formed the boundary between the two.  With this territorial re-mapping came a new understanding among the plants of the garden, not to mention my parents.  The backyard community united, and it has remained this way ever since.

As the summers went by, Old Bean’s progress was continuously reported to Mr. Wu.  My father wrote about Old Bean’s health, his growth rate, his coloring, and even his goodwill gestures.  When my brother’s Chinese-American neighbors invited their parents to visit from mainland China, it was Old Bean who welcomed them into the country.  My father sent over a sack of his Chinese vegetable harvest, which we later heard was wok-ed up with great delight.  How proud we were that our Chinese immigrant possessed such ambassadorial skills as to bring comfort to those far from home.

            This summer marks the fifteenth anniversary of Lao Dou’s arrival to America.  Mr. Wu and I don’t live in the same province anymore, but reports from my father have informed us both that Old Bean (or rather his saved offspring from the previous summer)  is especially splendid this year.  The Midwest’s abundant rains have given him a vibrant green hue and a healthy plumpness.   Pictures have been promised us, and we are anxiously awaiting their arrival.    

            My parents have received a number of gifts from China over the years, many sent by Chinese friends of mine wanting to be kind.  These have included  silk scarves, porcelain vases, clay teapots, hand painted scrolls, and embroidered slippers, all of which weren’t cheap.  But the most precious and valued gift of all is the one that came with no expensive price tag attached, sent from the heart by our Mr. Wu.    That’s the one we always call Old Bean.

 

           From Chengdu, hoping your summer garden harvest is a generous one and wishing you  "Ping An!" (Peace)

 

 

REMINDER FOR AID IN BUYING TENTS, VACCINES AND NEEDED SUPPLIES FOR EARTHQUAKE DISASTER AREAS

(Yes, still needed with 5 million having no homes) 

 

United Methodists:    UMCOR Advance #982450, International Disaster Response, China Earthquake

Others:  www.amityfoundation.org

           

 

Posted in Tales of China | Leave a comment

Our Quaint Little Red Light District

 

            The quiet, narrow side street that hugs my apartment complex is like many hundreds in the city.  Despite its semi-secluded location, it touts three roadside medical and physical therapy (massage) clinics, an Internet bar, a vegetable market,  flower shop,  hair salon, clothes shop, dry cleaners and even several family-run convenience stores.

            This side street appears quite normal aside from a strange sprinkling of closed businesses that are interspersed between the regular stores.  These one-room shops are all  alike.  They have a thick glass storefront with heavy curtains drawn, making it impossible to see inside.  Heavy padlocks tightly secure the outside door handles shut.

             In the daytime, one hardly notices them while walking down the sidewalk.  But when 11 p.m. arrives, a stroll down our side street invites you into a quaint little red light district.

            Prostitution is supposedly illegal in China, yet hundreds of these areas can be found throughout the city.  I can only speak from familiarity with this particular area but from what I see, unlike America, our neighborhood’s red light district is a clean, well-kept place.  The streets are neatly swept.  Shopkeepers take pride in their businesses, despite where they happen to be, and make sure their tidy displays present a pleasant sight for passersby. Children race excitedly through on their way home from school.  The elderly chatter away along the sidewalks after finishing their exercise sessions in the nearby park. Residents sit outside on stools, enjoying the cool of June before the summer heat hits hard.  And safety is never an issue, even in the wee hours of the morning.  Average Chinese are always present, either playing mahjong, buying snacks from the still-open convenience stores and fruit cart sellers, or partaking of midnight meals sold by tiny restaurants and street venders.

               The set-up of our tiny red light district is a bit different from that in my home country.   Around 8 p.m., a few call girls will appear here and there to attract customers. They emerge from the curtained, padlocked shops, opened by a man or woman standing on the curbside, and hover at the corner of the street that empties into an obscure alleyway.  They dress in high heeled shoes or thigh-length boots which compliment their provocative clothing.  Make-up is thick with plenty of eye shadow and eyeliner to accentuate their eyes. Their purpose is to entice drivers to partake in their business rather than a competitor’s.  It’s also obvious that those cruising slowly by, all men in shiny dark cars, are here for their services and not just out for a leisurely ride around the city.

            The men or women on the street are in charge of handling the payment. They have purses slung over their shoulders where the money is kept and are the ones to talk directly to the client.  Once the amount is determined, the curtained storefront is unlocked and a girl comes out.  Hotels just a block away can be used at a  rate of $7 per 3 hours or the driver might take the girl home.  Later, the girls are dropped off and  rejoin their companions inside the locked store. 

            The interesting thing about the hotels in the area is that they are quite nice. One would think they’d be dingy, dark, sinister and filthy but that’s not the case at all. During the past weekend, I booked my Chinese friend from Inner Mongolia, “Richard” Wei, into one of these hotels for his first visit to Chengdu.  It was only $10 a night for a single room, had fresh clean linens and spotless tile floors, nice furniture, came with hot water and tea and had a large color TV.  The front desk ladies were very polite, the floor attendants quite attentive and nothing smelled rank or odd.

            Richard thoroughly enjoyed his stay here.  He did have to laugh a bit upon his late night arrivals back to his room after we’d had a full day of touring.  The desk girls looked at one another, whispering something to the effect that this guy didn’t need “other” services, just a good night’s sleep.   

            Both of us had at one time spotted in the lobby some beautiful-figured girls in mega-short, clinging tube dresses.  We figured they were there for those wishing for a bit of excitement in the night. Their eyes followed Richard when he entered the hotel but quickly dismissed him an an unlikely candidate.  For Richard, touring Chengdu with his foreign girl friend was excitement enough.   

            The sizzling heat of the Sichuan summer has not yet reached us  but when it does, these brothel storefronts will open to reveal what’s been hidden inside all year. Older teenagers to those in their twenties lounge on couches inside.  While dressed in sparkly, somewhat elegant tight-fitting attire, they are rather crude in their slouching posture and mannerisms of openly yawning or picking at their teeth and nails.  To pass the time, they watch TV while munching on snacks and slurping tea.  Their clientele are mostly businessmen who drive up in their privately owned cars, deal with the money handler in front and then off they go with one of the girls, either to a hotel or back to the man’s apartment.  From nearby business owners, I learned the cost is 50 to 200 yuan ($6.25 to $25) depending on the girl and services rendered. 

            My guess is that many of these women are from the countryside, uneducated and poor, who came to the city looking for work.    It is a sad reminder that the world is a hard place to live in, especially for women. 

            Currently, the shops are closed up tight but last August, when I first arrived in Chengdu, the stifling heat had the glass doors wide open with all the girls roasting hot inside. (No air-conditioner.)  Little Flower and I would take walks down that way and one particular shop took a shine to my dog.  LF was always invited into the open doors and fed anything from beef noodles to potato chips to peanuts. They anxiously awaited our walks.  When LF suddenly appeared in the entranceway, her tail wagging eagerly, they would call out, “Xiao Hua!  Xiao Hua! Guo lai!  Guo lai  (Little Flower! Little Flower!  Come here!  Come here!)”

            It was rather sweet to see their daily routine interrupted by something that brought a little heartfelt happiness into their lives.

            Of course,  LF was always eager to have their undivided attention.  She never judged these young women, like so many of us do. If nothing else, she reminded me that whatever age we are, or appearance we have, or social status we hold, we are all equally worthy of being noticed and loved, even if the work we have is frowned upon by society.

            In another month, I’ll change LF’s walking route and we’ll once again head down our quaint little red light district to visit the girls.  We haven’t seen them for almost a year.  Perhaps some have forgotten about the foreigner’s little dog who came to visit last summer, but I’m sure Little Flower hasn’t.  She always remembers everyone, especially those who once fed her potato chips and beef noodles.

 

            From Chengdu, here’s wishing you an evening’s “Ping An!”

             

REMINDER FOR AID IN BUYING TENTS, VACCINES AND NEEDED SUPPLIES FOR EARTHQUAKE DISASTER AREAS

(Yes!  Money still needed for 5 million having nothing other than tents and donated supplies to live on.) 

 

United Methodists:    UMCOR Advance #982450, International Disaster Response, China Earthquake

Others:  www.amityfoundation.org

              

 

Posted in Chengdu Daily Life | 1 Comment