Luzhou Makes National and International News, Not in a Good Way

Yes, I’m starting off the New Year with a rather tragic tale, this one posted from my home along the Yangtze. However, this last day of 2013 will allow me to begin 2014 on a happy high note, hopefully with photos of all the fun I’ve been having these past 10 days.

A WHIRLWIND WEEK OF HOLIDAY CHEER

As you know, I returned to Luzhou (loo-joe) to enjoy the Christmas holiday for a week. I expected to have more time to write and post my stories but it’s been so busy!

There was cleaning the school apartment after 2 months away, putting up some favorite sparkly decorations and lights (couldn’t be without them), baking my delicious holiday cookies to give away, attending the PC (Peace Corp) party for the Chinese teachers, Christmas Eve at church, gatherings with Chinese friends and then a potluck hosted here by Geoff and Angela, our PC teachers, who invited several other foreigners to attend with their Chinese guests.

AN EXPLOSION OF GREAT PROPORTIONS

That last event, the potluck, was to be held on the Friday after Christmas. The day before, I prepared the only thing I can really cook well ( a humongous pot of homemade vegetable soup) to allow the many herbs to sit for a day. I had debated doing it the day-of but something nudged me into remembering why that old, wise adage, “Don’t put off today what you can do tomorrow,” has been going around for centuries.

Because it is so true.

Sure enough, Friday morning I awoke to find the electricity was off and no gas. The electricity came back on within 30 minutes, which was fine, but not the other.

In my apartment, as in most in China, the gas is used to both heat water (I have an electric gas water heater for my shower) and the range. No gas, no hot water for showers and no ability to cook.

Often times, we receive notices posted on our apartment buildings of times when any of our utilities will be off for awhile due to repairs or safety checks. Those are planned. But we sometimes get unannounced cut-offs due to unforeseen problems or difficulties.

Doesn’t happen very often but this last Friday, it was obviously so.

It wasn’t until later in the day that I found out why, when I picked up on all the news buzzing around the campus.

“Did you hear about the big explosion downtown?”
“I heard it was terrorists!”
“So many people died, hundreds! The hospitals were overflowing!”

THE FACTS EMERGE

Obviously, our gas lines were affected due to this explosion. It did come back on at 4:30 p.m., allowing me to shower and heat up the soup, but all the important details of what exactly happened weren’t revealed until Saturday newspaper articles appeared. Even we foreigners, sitting around our table of plenty that Friday evening, had all sorts of semi-accurate, gossipy stories to share about what had happened.

Here is the best article so far that I came across, putting this smaller river city, Luzhou, on the national map.

THE ARTICLE POSTED ONLINE

Huang Zhiling
China Daily/Asia News Network
Saturday, Dec 28, 2013

A fire caused by a blast of natural gas at a shopping mall in the busiest commercial street in Luzhou, Sichuan province, on Thursday night, killed four and injured 40 people as of press time on Friday.

The dead included three men aged 22, 45 and 55, and a 25-year-oled woman. One of the men was a security guard at the shopping mall. The woman had been watching a movie an d died after inhaling toxic gas in the aftermath of the fire.

Xiao Zhe, another moviegoer, said many in the theatre thought the sound of the blast came from a 3-D film and did not get up to leave.

The fire, which broke out at about 10:40 pm, disrupted the natural gas supply in the city of more than 5 million people for 14 hours.

The cause of the blast was under investigation, although some believed it happened when workers were repairing natural gas pipelines, according to Wang Tianquan, an information officer in the city.

According to Huang Cheng, an employee of the Huitong Department Store opposite the Mo’erma Shopping Mall: “I was preparing New Year’s gifts for VIP clients of our store when I heard the deafening sound of a blast. Somebody shouted, ‘Mo’erma Shopping Mall had a blast, and it caught fire,’ I fled and saw flames and black smoke coming from the first three floors of Mo’erma.”

Liu Kunfu, a resident of the city, was passing by the shopping mall with his 4-year-old grandson. Shattered glass from the six-story mall buried him up to his waist. He was rescued about a half-hour later when firefighters and ambulances arrived.

“My grandson was unscathed, as I covered and protected him with my body,” said the 49-year-old, who received treatment for bruises and lacerations in the lobby of the Traditional Chinese Medicine Hospital attached to Luzhou Medical College.

As of late Friday, smoke was still coming from the shopping mall, whose windows were gone. Onlookers gawked outside caution tape around the darkened mall. Fire engines surrounded the centre.

“After the blast, firefighters arrived at the scene and used water blast guns to extinguish the flames. The water from the guns shattered all the glass,” said Wu Jie, 27, a cleaner.

Dozens of cleaners were sleepless Thursday night waiting for the order to clean up the glass, he said.
The injured were being treated in four hospitals in Luzhou.

Tan Zhiping, 28, was one of 12 injured people taken to the Hospital Attached to Luzhou Medical College. She suffered a fracture on her right hand.

OUR NOSTALGIC MOU’ER: THE FIRST MODERN SHOPPING PLAZA IN THE CITY

It is a sad thing when the first big shopping plaza in the city is destroyed. The Mou’er used to be the place for Chinese to go to do their fancy shopping. When I first came here over 10 years ago, no place else boasted such a one-stop shopping spree as Mou’er. There was the basement grand grocery, Western style with gleaming floors, wide aisles and carts to haul your goods around in. Then all the departments to follow on the next 3 floors: kitchenware, electronics, bedding, small furnishings, jewelry . . . not to mention very elegant clothes that could only be found in the bigger cities.

Over the years, the Mou’er became out-classed by the newly built, city central 6-story shopping malls and well-known cheaper chain stores, similar to our Walmart, like Ren Ren Le (Everybody’s Happy). But despite that, Mou’er held fast to its clientele who didn’t want to wander 6 floors for what was needed or bother getting lost in an expansive shopping area. Whizzing directly from the main street sidewalk into downtown Mou’er for a 10-minute purchase or a 2-hour wander was as convenient as it gets.

Also to be mentioned is the fact that this was one of the only stores in town that had butter consistently. For us foreigners, that made it all the more special since a trip to Chengdu (3 ½ hours away) was usually needed to purchase such a treasured item.

Saying farewell to our nostalgic Mou’er is, indeed, very sad, at least for me, anyway.

A 1-DAY HOLIDAY NEARLY UPON US: 2014 ARRIVING!

Now that New Year’s is almost upon us, the shock of last week’s explosion is fading. Everyone is getting ready for their 1-day off tomorrow before the true countdown begins to the Year of the Horse, Jan. 31st. Stores and shopping malls across the country are already highlighting huge sales, some being open to midnight or later, to welcome in 2014. Should be a very busy night in the downtown districts.

As for me, I have no immediate plans other than to meet up with friends and enjoy a pleasant evening in the rivercity, Luzhou.

Here’s hoping your 2014 arrives with great hope and joy for the new year, and here’s sending you blessings and Ping An (peace) from China this last day of 2013!

Posted in Uncategorized | 1 Comment

At the Park, Christians Practice for Church Performance Celebrations

The ladies prepare for their Christmas Eve fan dance.

The ladies prepare for their Christmas Eve fan dance.

Practicing "Joy to the World"

Practicing “Joy to the World”

It started 2 months ago.

I arrived on Wednesday after class to Meng Zhui Wan park, where my swimming pool is located, to find quite a crowd.

Every day, I have been swimming as a part of my daily exercise and relaxing routine. After a 20-minute taxi ride, I step to the curbside to walk across the tiled expanse of park that surrounds the outdoor and indoor pools. Usually around noon, a small spattering of elderly are out in groups doing tai qi, ballroom dancing or swinging from the athletic equipment set up for the public use.

There aren’t usually too many but on that particular Wednesday awhile back, there were small clusters of people spread out all over. As I made my way around them, I noticed that one particular group stood in a circle, heads bowed while saying the Lord’s Prayer. Another, a small band, was in full swing playing Joy to the World. And still yet other active gatherers were working diligently on a fan dance performed to a Chinese hymn booming from their portable cassette player.

Ah, the preparations for Christmas in China were underway!

CHINESE CHRISTIANS PREPARING FOR CHURCH CELEBRATIONS

It is the custom in most Chinese churches to have performances for midnight eve services.

Last year, I was in the Luzhou church choir and we also were preparing weeks in advance for our special numbers, We Wish You a Merry Christmas (in English) and Handel’s Hallelujah Chorus (in Chinese). Our Sunday school classes (all ages), retired folks’ choir, youth and children’s choirs, instrumentalists and others were likewise getting ready for their dance, skit or musical numbers.

I remember we all met at the church at different times to practice so we had to coordinate who got the sanctuary when. Sometimes, we ran into a bit of overlap, much to the irritation of our choir director “John” Lu. I then found out that adult choir trumps all other circles in the Luzhou church. We were never the ones to move, especially when Director Lu was in charge.

Many would have met at our local city park if possible but the park was closed for the year to undergo renovations, thus it was the church we stayed at.

How nice that here in Chengdu, the church Christians could gather outside in an environment suited for such large numbers!

REACHING PERFORMANCE PERFECTION

Every Wednesday, I’ve hung back 10 minutes or so to watch everyone’s progress in their practices. I did tell a few of the ladies, during a break once, that I was also a Christian and participated in services in Luzhou last year. I’d be happy to attend their worship but I’d instead be returning on the 24th to spend time with my church family along the Yangtze.

“Oh, what a pity!” several said with great disappointment.

Yes, in many ways, it is a pity because they’ve really improved over the past 2 months. I have no doubt the Christmas Eve services at Chengdu’s main Protestant church (quite near the park, actually) will prove to be quite something special, as will all upcoming celebrations throughout the Christian communities here, Luzhou included.

Many blessings for your own Christmas celebrations, wherever you might be, and wishing you Ping An (Peace) during your Yuletide season.

Posted in Chengdu Daily Life, Travel | 2 Comments

Memories of Enjoying the Chinese Gingko Among the Chinese

For one week, our sidestreets were closed  to vehicle traffic for safer gingko viewing by the public.

For one week, our sidestreets were closed to vehicle traffic for safer gingko viewing by the public.

Our neighborhood ginkgo, awaiting the crowds to alight by the hundreds.

Our neighborhood ginkgo, awaiting the crowds to alight by the hundreds.

Couples out for their wedding photos during weekends are always seen in Chengdu.  The autumn leaves made posing all the more special.

Couples out for their wedding photos during weekends are always seen in Chengdu. The autumn leaves made posing all the more special.

We all love to play in fall leaves.  These kids are creating a golden heart.

We all love to play in fall leaves. These kids are creating a golden heart.

Family members can't get enough of photographing the little ones.

Family members can’t get enough of photographing the little ones.

When a model appears, here positioned on a ladder, anyone with a camera takes advantage.

When a model appears, here positioned on a ladder, anyone with a camera takes advantage.

These office mates came out during their lunch hour to immortalize Autumn in a photo shoot.

These office mates came out during their lunch hour to immortalize Autumn in a photo shoot.

No one is excluded from  enjoying the sights of our neighborhood autumn.

No one is excluded from enjoying the sights of our neighborhood autumn.

Posted in Uncategorized | 1 Comment

Dressing the City in Gold: The Autumn Gingko (银杏) In Full Glory

All week, bright sunshine and 60-degree temperatures have filled the Sichuan University campus lawns with crowds of happy folk. Families, the elderly, kite flyers, dog walkers and students have been putting this amazing weather to good use. Blankets are spread to relax or sleep on, then filled with light snacks to indulge upon later. Toddlers plow gleefully through those seated on the ground while doting grandparents follow close behind. Doggies romp freely with one another as owners chit-chat among themselves. Retired men, flying kites, keep skillful hands on their string reels while watching their homemade creations sail high over our heads. College couples, entwined in each other’s arms, whisper sweet sentiments in between nuzzles and carresses.

It is a scene I have never seen on the quiet campus of Luzhou Vocational and Technical College. A small, 3-year school just doesn’t have the drawing power of a noted Chinese university whose lush grounds, majestic ancient-style buildings and central city location make it the place to patronize for a few peaceful hours.

But this entire week really brought out both locals and tourists alike by the thousands, not only to the Sichuan University campus but many small neighborhood areas throughout Chengdu.

What’s been the big fuss?

It’s peak autumnal season of the Chinese Ginkgo trees!

THE CHINESE GINKGO 银杏 (Yin Xing)

I did some research on this tree, since it’s such a popular sight along almost every street here. This is what I discovered.

The Chinese ginkgo, also spelled gingko and known as the maidenhair tree, is of the ornamental variety. It has lovely fan-like leaves and produces nuts which are used in herbal supplements. According to the website I found, an extract is made from the leaves of the ginkgo and drunk to strengthen memory and concentration. It is also used to treat numerous ailments, including tinnitus, fatigue, asthma, Alzheimer’s disease, leg pain, multiple sclerosis, cancer, bronchitis, coughs and reproductive tract problems. The World Health Organization has even approved the use of ginkgo leaves to treat Raynaud’s Disease, a condition in which blood flow to the surface tissue of the skin is temporarily reduced.

It was brought to the New World from China in the 1700’s and has been known to do quite well in our US environment. It can survive freezing temperatures, drought conditions and heavy rainfall. However, it doesn’t fair well in arid climates so those of you living in Arizona, let’s say, won’t be finding any ginkgo adorning your boulevards.

I also learned the female tree produces a small, tan-colored fruit that has an objectionable odor. Most horticulturalists and landscapers avoid planting the female ginkgo tree for this reason. Despite that set-back, it is definitely a favorite for gardeners. It requires little pruning and has strong resistance to pests and disease. It can even be grown as a bonsai, sitting in a small pot and trimmed into a desirable shape.

But among us Chengdu folk, it’s not the hardiness, the medicinal value, or the gardener’s favorite that is bringing us out in droves to gaze at these beauties. It’s their amazingly gorgeous golden autumn leaves.

DRESSING THE CITY IN GOLD

It is hard to describe the excitement of the Chinese over the autumn ginkgo.

The few blocks, small lanes and alleyways, or larger parks and school campuses that have them are currently overrun with anyone and everyone out to take advantage of this spectacle.

Professional and amatuer photographers alike make their way under the trees’ golden, leafy tresses to get just the right light. They also have their pick of shots from among young models, wedding couples in full marriage attire and little children who wander about and strike poses while those nearby toss leaves high into the air to cascade downward upon them. Friends and family are ready with their cellphone or digital cameras. After snapping away, they then huddle together, reviewing the photos again and again to agree upon the keepers and the discards.

So popular is this seasonal experience among locals that the city government has chosen certain rare gingko spots for just that: ginkgo viewing and nothing else.

All week, our neighborhood side street lined with majestic ginkgo was blocked off. A sign along the wider street and a connecting narrow road (Splendid Lane Alley) stated that no cars were allowed, either for parking or driving. From December 5 to 12th, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., pedestrians only had access.

Ginkgo news spreads fast in this city so you can imagine what the past five days have been like in my neighborhood: tourist central!

What great fun it has been to watch those of all ages and backgrounds walking aimlessly down the middle of the street with a canopy of yellow gold above them and a carpet of the same beneath. For the only time all year, the street sweepers were off duty from cleaning away the fallen leaves. Their traditional twigged brooms lounged against trees or lay idley along the curbside while piles of leaves crunched under our feet.

It has been a nostalgic journey for me, remembering my childhood years of play when Fall overtook our yard in smalltown Marshall.

A WEEKEND CHILL; A WEEKEND CLEAN-UP

This weekend, however, brought an end to our yearly Chengdu ginkgo viewing.

Our temps dipped into the 30s at night, 50s during the day with darkening skies and light drizzle during our morning hours. The street cleaners have been busy at work, sweeping away all that crisp beauty that all week brought us frolicking folk out by the thousands. Car traffic has returned, mingling that once fragrant fall scent with dastardly fumes.

Of course, not all of the gingko have faded away. There are still trees holding desperately to their colorful covering but it’s a losing battle. Winter is fast approaching southwestern China and the gingko are proving to be the first victims.

Ah, well.

We all have steadfast memories to enjoy from last week’s gingko tree photography sessions. I know I certainly do, along with next year to look forward to.

(Note: My autumn gingko photos are soon to follow. Downloads are excruciatingly slow on this computer, thus the delay. They should be appearing in full within the next couple of days.

UPCOMING PLANS

In the meantime, it’s the anticipation of Christmas (December 25) for me, and Chinese Spring Festival (January 31) for the Chinese, that is overtaking most of the excitement at the moment.

I’ll be off to Luzhou for a few days to enjoy the holidays with our Peace Corp members and Luzhou church community. Then it’s returning to Chengdu to finish up the school year at Sichuan University before our Chinese New Year vacation days finally set in.

If I don’t get back to you before then, here’s wishing you an early Merry Christmas from China and Ping An (Peace) for the upcoming new year.

Posted in Chengdu Daily Life, Travel | 1 Comment

Photos for Previous Blog

Sabrina's:  The best place for US citizens  to get their American food fix.

Sabrina’s: The best place for US citizens to get their American food fix.

An extensive stock of American goods can be found at Sabrina's.

An extensive stock of American goods can be found at Sabrina’s.

Sabrina's has a wide range of American foods, for a price.  Chips here run from $5 - 10  . . . a bag!

Sabrina’s has a wide range of American foods, for a price. Chips here run from $5 – 10 . . . a bag!

My Thanktsfiving Day dinner, Lusty's Turkey soup, courtesy of my friend at Sabrina's.

My Thanktsfiving Day dinner, Lusty’s Turkey soup, courtesy of my friend at Sabrina’s.

At Peter's, the T-day menu is impressively . . . inviting and expensive.

At Peter’s, the T-day menu is impressively . . . inviting and expensive.

Peter's storefront invites diners to a Thanksgiving Day feast.

Peter’s storefront invites diners to a Thanksgiving Day feast.

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

“Yes, Virginia, there is turkey in China!”

I’ve found living in the big city rather than small town Luzhou has a lot of perks. One of them is turkey for Thanksgiving.

Turkey is not a bird found commonly in China nor eaten here. I have only seen turkeys once in my 20-odd years of being in this country and that was several years ago in tiny Longzhou, my former teaching placement near Vietnam. A farmer had loaded onto his motorbike cages stuffed with flapping, squawking fowl of all sorts and 3 turkeys were in the midst of the feathery mess. I remember being so excited that I ran back to my apartment and returned with my camera for a picture.

I have no idea what happened to the gobblers, if they were sold in our village town or sent off to a bigger city for purchasing, but I’ve never seen any others since.

Because there is no Thanksgiving Day holiday in China, the only place to find turkey and the fixings of our traditional dinner would be in Western restaurants in bigger cities, where we have communities of foreigners. Along the Yangtze in Luzhou, we never had food establishments offering such things, but in Chengdu, Thanksgiving Day dinner possibilities can be found in abundance.

LIVING AMIDST THE FOREIGNERS’ HAVEN

I live in Sichuan University’s West Gate area, which happens to be about a 10-minute walk from the US Consulate. So aside from the foreign college students, we also have the American employees and soldiers not far away as well. This makes us a very lucrative business district for overseas’ guests.

This is why the West Gate touts numerous restaurants catering to foreigners’ tastes. We have Casa Mia (Italian), Vanilla Sky (higher end European), Peter’s Tex-Mex (American and Mexican cuisine), St. Paddy’s (British pub with snacks), the Bookworm (cafe with light sandwiches and pastas), just to mention a few.

TURKEY DINNERS EASILY HAD . . . FOR A PRICE

Quite a few of these have special holiday meals served up to the Chengdu community. The most notable dinners are at Peter’s, which has a traditional Thanksgiving Day meal served every year for lunch the day of and dinner the day after.

7 years ago when I was studying Chinese in Chengdu, I had the day-after full course turkey dinner at Peter’s for 78 yuan (about $10) and it was well worth it. Everything was homemade, including the stuffing and mashed potatoes, not to mention the pumpkin pie.

Last week, I excitedly high-tailed it across the street to Peter’s to check up on this year’s holiday turkey meal. I found out two surprising things.

First, the meal was a more elaborate affair than in 2006, adding mulled cider, cream of pumpkin soup, waldorf salad, turkey with yams, dressing, steamed broccoli, and cranberry sauce, along with pumpkin or keylime pie for dessert. That’s a lot of food for a person such as myself and I wondered if I could even eat it all.

The second thing I discovered was the price: a wopping 128 yuan, or $21.50 per person. Over double what I had paid before.

Something else new on the menu was the alternative Thanksgiving day feast, the main entree being U.S. Angus grilled rib-eye steak.

How much does one fork over for that one? 268 yuan, or $44.70.

Needless to say, I decided this year in China, a Thanksgiving Day dinner would most likely be a miss.

DO IT YOURSELF

A homecooked holiday meal can also be had for those Americans here with a fully equipped overseas’ kitchen (i.e., a conventional style oven, which Chinese don’t use or have) and money in their pockets to purchase all the required ingredients.

The best imported food store in the city is Sabrina’s International Food Store, just around the corner from me. It is often filled with those from the American school and the consulate looking for their U.S. comfort foods or curious Chinese trying to figure out what all those bizarre, foreign items are used for or taste like.

Sabrina’s has neatly stacked shelves of foreign goods, a majority American. The owner does a booming business among the expats. Chips, cookies, soft drinks, breakfast cereals, condiments (mustard, ketchup, relish), canned soups, cake and brownie mixes, baking goods (cocoa, chocolate chips, powdered sugar, Pillsbury flour) . . . . This store has it all, albeit for a hefty price. (Usually, items are double or triple what we’d pay in the States.)

And that does, indeed, include all that’s needed for a home-cooked Thanksgiving Day dinner.

Just last week, Sabrina (the Chinese owner) had huge shipments of canned cranberry sauce, pumpkin, instant mashed potatoes and gravy mixes stacked on the floor, waiting to be shelved. Also available were American brand frozen turkeys, which had to be ordered ahead of time to be flown in from Shanghai or Hong Kong.

And how much does a frozen turkey go for at Sabrina’s? Her posted sign announced: “Frozen Turkeys: 58 yuan per kg” which roughly converts to 28 yuan ($4.70) per pound.

Ouch!

Nor were the ones I saw ordered very small. I took a peek into the freezer section to see just how big these turkeys were that Americans were purchasing for the holidays. We are talking 20-25 pounders ready to be picked up, which brings us roughly at $94 – $117 a bird.

Double ouch!

Especially as this year, the average price in the States was listed as $1.36 a pound.

In other words: “Dig down deep, oh, ye Pilgrims in China.”

GOING NATIVE . . . ALMOST

Along with the rest of the Chinese, I was just about to forego any such turkey eating luxuries when one of Sabrina’s store clerks surprised me with a special gift. While I was checking out the aisles the day before Thanksgiving, Ms. Gao dug through her bag and pulled out a can from Britain, John Lusty’s Turkey Soup.

“The owner gave this to us because it wasn’t selling,” she said. “Take it! I won’t eat it.”

Ms. Gao and I have a special relationship due to her love of my former dog, Little Flower (LF). Every time we visited, she’d give LF bits of cheese crumbs from the pantry or let her lick the tiramisu plate after all the slices had been sold.

She and I both miss LF immensely. Without my little Chi around, my visits to the store are not as joyful or uplifting for either of us.

Ms. Gao’s holiday offering was a way to bring a little of that long ago happiness back: She in the giving; me in the receiving.

I certainly am not one to turn down free food, even if John Lusty is not a brand I’m familiar with. And let’s not forget how appropriate a food it was: Turkey! Even if it was soup, I’d be getting a wee bit of my holiday bird after all.

THANKSGIVING DAY, HERE AND GONE

Classes went on as usual last Thursday but I did enjoy my little Thanksgiving Day feast of Lusty’s soup. It isn’t anything I’d like to eat again but it was still very special, especially because of who gave it to me and the reason behind it.

Hope you Thanksgiving Day was just as meaningful and thankful as mine. From China, Ping An (Peace)!

Posted in Chengdu Daily Life | 2 Comments

A Beloved Teacher Leaves, and Returns

Teacher Chen (center, in green vest) and our class  (I'm in the front row, gray sweatshirt)

Teacher Chen (center, in green vest) and our class (I’m in the front row, gray sweatshirt)

Two months ago, I entered my 8:30 a.m. morning lesson in Room 305 a bit earlier than usual. I was hoping Teacher Chen, my Comprehensive Chinese and writing teacher, and I could discuss better ways to improve his lessons. Our mutual respect for one another as language teachers had led to this open dialogue, which was becoming very refreshing for me as a teacher-become-student.

Why so?

In many ways, I’ve found it hard to keep my mouth shut when faced with teachers whose methodology mimicks years of a dull, yawning, very dreary teacher-fronted approach known as a standard throughout China. Students sit obediently and silently in their seats while their instructors systematically work their way through the chapters in the book. Even our conversation class, which I feel should be free talking on designated subjects, is reading set dialogues out loud and repeating vocabulary after the teacher for pronunciation practice.

This was always my students’ complaints about their junior high and high school English classes: Horribly boring with little joy in the room.

Falling prey to this during my time as a student at Sichuan University has been challenging so finding at least one teacher, Mr. Chen, responsive to some of my suggestions was really making my language study time seem a bit more fruitful.

But 2 months ago, there I found a very distraught 30-year-old Chen sitting at a student desk and pouring over a stack of formally typed papers.

“I’m not going!” he defiantly spoke aloud in English as he saw me enter. “I will just refuse to go. I don’t want to leave. This is very unfair!”

Being almost 20 years his senior, we’ve taken on the relationship of colleagues more than a distant student-teacher so all was revealed within the next 5 minutes.

CHINESE LANGUAGE TEACHERS SENT ABROAD TO TEACH

Along with many other Chinese colleges and schools, Sichuan University has many partner educational institutions all over the world. Every year, teachers of the Chinese Language Department are chosen to teach Chinese overseas for 2 years or longer. America, Europe, Africa and India are just a few countries where past Sichuan University staff have taught.

Teachers usually sign up for such things and are told in the summer that they’ve been chosen. Teacher Chen had put his name in for an opportunity to teach in America last year but this never materialized. His name then went into the pile for India but after waiting all summer for the announcement, consistently asking his departmental dean about it yet hearing nothing, he assumed he wasn’t going.

Oh, think again!

CHEN SURPRISED BY HIS UPCOMING VENTURE

Mr. Chen’s marching orders came during the weekend and he was not too happy about it.

First, he was off to Shanghai in just a few days to attend a 1-month seminar course for all Chinese teachers going abroad to teach Chinese. After that, he’d return to finish out the semester before heading off to India after the Chinese New Year. He’d be starting up his language courses at a sister Indian university but for how long , he couldn’t say. 1 year? 2 years?

As all things in this country, there is never any exactness about such things. We foreigners and Chinese alike often say the only certainty to be had in China is that everything is uncertain.

Despite Chen’s fervent wish to get out of this, there really isn’t much to be done in such situations. My guess is Chen was chosen because he’s single, has excellent English (definitely needed in India, especially for teaching beginning Chinese courses), has 5 years of teaching experience and is a man. He told me he is the only teacher from the university to go thus he might be fairly lonely in his new position, being the only Chinese national around.

There were, of course, other candidates available but they were probably not single and were women. Sending a young female teacher on her own to a new, rather out-there, private college in India is never something a Chinese dean would do. America or Europe would be a different story but lately in India, there have been many reports of overseas’ women being targeted and raped. I can imagine this is a great concern to the university, exposing a member of staff to such dangers, thus caution in sending a strong, hardy male teacher rather than a female one.

Thus it was that after the October 1st holidays, my classmates and I lost our Comprehensive Chinese and writing teacher, Mr. Chen.

UPHILL STRUGGLE IN THE CLASSROOM

It wouldn’t have been quite so traumatic had it not been that Comprehensive Chinese is our core class. Unlike the other subjects (listening, writing, culture, conversation), this class meets every day. It combines all the skills into one and, in my estimate, is our most useful class.

We had great hopes that the replacement teacher would be just fine, maybe even better than Chen.

What a boost to our morale when Teacher Yuan arrived, a lively young woman who brought visual aids to class and in Day 2 entertained us with a silly language game which we all couldn’t get enough of. Even the Korean boys who sit behind me, mostly playing with their cellphones, perked up when a competition erupted on which side could get the most points. They were enthusiasticlly shouting out the answers like junior high school kids along with the rest of us.

But sad to say, Teacher Yuan had to leave us after 3 days due to what she said was “something else” of more importance.

After that, Teacher Li entered the picture, and we all suffered greatly for it.

Poor Li!

The woman glued herself to a chair behind the podium and that’s where she stayed the majority of our lessons, droning rapidly on and on from the workbook about . . . we never were quite sure. I did manage to suggest that she write on the board from time to time and she took me up on this, much to our relief. In fact, her white board organizational skills were, indeed, quite exemplary. Still, about 70% of the time, it was Li sitting, talking, and us trying desperately to follow what she was saying.

It became so bad that a majority of the class just didn’t show up for her lessons, or straggled in 30 or 45 minutes late.

I did speak to her after class once and found out that this was the first time for her to teach at our level. She also was a linguistics major in school, not really into teacher education, which certainly explained her inability to create a decent lesson.

I honestly felt she had great promise if only someone would take her under their wing as a mentor, but it wasn’t my job to do so. Besides, Teacher Chen would be returning. We could endure Teacher Li until then.

So endure we did until last Friday came.

TEACHER CHEN RETURNS!

Yes, our beloved Teacher Chen has returned from Shanghai!

He and I had a lively conversation during the break of all the woes we’d had to put up with while he was gone. Nothing pleases a teacher more to hear how a replacement was awful and his or her return is greeted with such joyfulness.

Yes, we were definitely joyful on Friday, I can tell you that!

So tomorrow, we begin our morning classes on a high note as Chen takes over once more. With his presence at the head of the class once more, we are all really looking forward to this second half of the semester, I can definitely tell you that.

UNBLOCKED AND READY TO REPORT FROM CHENGDU

And, speaking of looking forward to the rest of the school year, looks like we can all look forward to more regular reports from Chengdu on my website.

Yes, I have managed to gain a new Chinese friend who yesterday quickly put the computer back to getting around all those blocked websites. How many tales to tell to catch you all up on life in the big city is uncountable but I’ll do my best to pick out the most interesting ones.

From Chengdu, here’s wishing you Ping An (Peace) for your day and a safe, happy, upcoming Thanksgiving!

Posted in Chengdu Daily Life, Travel | 2 Comments

Surprise! Checking in from Luzhou

After over 2 months in the big city, Chengdu, this weekend found me alighting back on my doorstep along the Yangtze River at Luzhou Vocational and Technical College. And an even bigger surprise awaited me in my apartment, other than lots of dust and rat nibbles on my bar of soap in the bathroom. My Internet hook-up with the city is still up and running! Although my payment of 1 year is no longer in effect, it seems someone has forgotten to erase me from the system. Thus I get to actually post a blog from Luzhou since I am still struggling with this in Chengdu.

A WEEKEND VISIT of RELAXATION

Daily Chinese language classes at Sichuan University have been quite tiring, not to mention busy, so having a weekend away is wonderful. I am especially missing my holiday lessons which I’d be teaching at this time of year if I were still on a work visa.

Halloween has passed but Thanksgiving and Christmas are yet to come. Sitting here in my cozy school apartment, having just turned on last year’s Christmas lights still adorning my outdoor balcony security bars, brings back a lot of wonderful winter memories from 2012. Today’s Sunday worship at the Luzhou Protestant church, listening to Pastor Liao’s sermon and the choir, made me wish us all to speed ahead a year so I could once again be included in choir practices and the big Christmas celebrations yet to come.

I have actually made plans to return for Christmas and miss a few days of classes next month. At Sichuan University, only Chinese holidays are celebrated. That certainly does not include Christmas. While I could stay in Chengdu and easily attend the huge city church services there, I’d much rather be back in my home here with friends and Christians I know and care for. It is more meaningful and will truly make my holiday a bright and special one.

MY MOM’S 80th PRE-BIRTHDAY SURPRISE

Aside from China news, one bit from America I want to mention concerns my mom’s 80th birthday surprise, held at our hair stylist’s salon, Stephen’s.

Stephen Glendenning, in Martinsville, Illiniois, has been cutting my family’s hair for years, including my mom, myself, my brother and even at one point my sister-in-law. This summer, Stephen gave me the idea of having something special planned for my mom’s November appointment, already booked and ready to go. Her 80th birthday is November 23, which obviously places me in China and not in the US. What something special could be arranged for her even though I wasn’t there?

For my mom’s 75th, I had enlisted the help of my mom’s best friend, Karen Heighton, for a church afternoon reception with friends and family present. This was not a surprise but just a birthday gathering to wish her happiness for her upcoming birthday. I remember my mom had originally said she wanted no such thing, and certainly not a surprise, but after it came together, she was very happy that we’d done something special for her.
For her 80th, I asked if she’d like anything planned. She once again insisted there shouldn’t be a fuss, no reception such as 5 years before. It was just enough for cake at home and presents from whomever.

But this summer, talking to Stephen about making her November appointment something to remember, the birthday pre-party plan was hatched.

Directly across the street from the salon was a cake shop, Darcy’s. After visiting there, I discussed with Darcy herself what was needed. A cake was ordered with my mom’s photo, from when she was 3 years old, to be placed on the top. I also headed off to the Dollar Store to stock up on decorations and party favors which Stephen would be in charge of using for her special hair day. I paid for her cut, of course, and handed over the duties to Stephen for her November 1st party day in his salon.

Naturally, Stephen and I have been looking forward to this day since August. We’ve had a couple emails back and forth as November 1st came closer, both of us anticipating what a surprise this would be.
But leave it to my mother to decide, 2 days before the appointment, to change it to the next week. Fortunately for Stephen, she gave enough heads-up time for him to call Darcy to change the cake-making day to November 5 (Tuesday).

Whew!

Yet our well-designed scheme went into crisis mode a second time when my mom called again to change the date to November 7. The church chili supper was on Tuesday and she’d already signed up to help. Stephen managed another cake date change without penalty fees and, finally, my mom had her 80th pre-birthday surprise.

According to her reports, Stephen and staff hid behind the counter. When she entered, they popped up, showering her with confetti and shouting, “Surprise! Happy Birthday!”

Stephen had decorated the entranceway wall with birthday banners. Her cake, ready to be shared with everyone, was positioned on a table nearby. She was requested to wear her party hat and lapel ribbon, “The Birthday Girl,” for pictures before blowing out the candles and cutting the cake. My mom also wrote in her email Stephen enjoyed the telling of the tale how the party’s many date changes had everyone wondering if ever the surprise event would take place.

Well, it did, much to my mom’s delight and everyone’s relief.

After many “thank you”s to Stephen for helping out, I did say that for her 90th, we’re definitely not going to try this again!

BACK TO CHENGDU TOMORROW

Tonight will be spent a bit with our Peace Corp volunteers, Angela and Geoff, to catch up on their new teaching lives here in China. After that, I will pack up things to return to Chengdu tomorrow. This week is review week for mid-terms so I’m not missing much on Monday. November 18 we start up again on new lessons before finals the week of January 13.

Time certainly goes fast!

Until then, I might be giving Christmas reports next month from Luzhou if the Internet continues to be connected. We can always hope!

From China, here’s wishing you Ping An (Peace) for the week and your upcoming Thanksgiving Day holidays.

Posted in Uncategorized | 1 Comment

Visiting Luzhou for the Weekend

        The past week has been filled with settling into my off-campus room in Chengdu, registering for the semester, applying for my permanent student visa and adjusting to big city life.  It also means adjusting to the cold.

         Upon landing in Chengdu, 3 1/2 hours north of Luzhou, the rain and chilly weather hit.  The temps dropped from a roasting 92 along the Yangtze River to a “freezing” (at least in my mind) 63.  All those summer clothes I had packed were useless as I shivered my way through a week of 24-hour drizzle, wet and cold.

          Needless to say, I repacked my suitcase on Friday,  returned to Luzhou for the weekend, left my summerwear behind and filled the luggage with fall and winter clothes.  I also visited a bit more with the Peace Corp volunteers, having a potluck in my home.  

         The two assigned to this school are Angela (California, age 25) and Jeff (Florida, age 22).  Their majors are not in education, meaning they are beginning teachers, so they had loads of questions about the schedule, the students and basically getting started in the classroom:  the hows, whys and whats to do of teaching. 

         We were joined by Greg, in his mid-20s, whose Peace Corp placement at the Luzhou Medical College.  Greg had taught 3 years in Korea, all ages of students, so he has a bit more experience to draw on than Angela and Jeff. 

Welcome, new Peace Corp Volunteers!  In my home, from left to right:  Jeff, Greg and Angela.

Welcome, new Peace Corp Volunteers! In my home, from left to right: Jeff, Greg and Angela.

          I am so sorry I am not here to help our PC a bit more with their teaching experience but I’m sure they will do fine.  Next year at this time, when I return to join them, they’ll be old hands at this.  It’s just this first semester that will be the most challenging.

Final Note

          I have as yet to connect to my computer to the Internet system in Chengdu.  On this trip to Luzhou, I am still using the Luzhou server to post my reports so I thought I’d get in at least two before taking off again for the capital city.  Might not be reporting for awhile until I get things set up properly.

          Until next time, here’s wishing you Ping An (Peace) for your day!   

 

Posted in From Along the Yangtze, Tales from Sichuan's Yangtze Rivertown, Luzhou, Tales from The Yangtze River, Travel | Leave a comment

The Luzhou Airport: A Highlight, From and To Luzhou

         

Arriving at our Luzhou Airport.  The airplane taxies right up to the building and off we go!

Arriving at our Luzhou Airport. The airplane taxies right up to the building and off we go!

         One of the highlights of this last trip to America was flying from and into our little Luzhou Airport.
         I have never done this before in all my years working here, although taking off directly to Shanghai would have been a lot easier than traveling the 3 ½ hours to Chengdu. The reason I always left from Sichuan’s capital city was because Little Flower’s sitter was located there. I’d go by bus, drop her off with Mrs. He and then take off the next day on my journeys to the States from Chengdu’s International Airport.
         But this time around, I had no need to travel to Chengdu with no Little Flower to care for. This time around, it was conveniently load my luggage in a taxi, pay the driver 50 yuan ($9) and in 15 minutes, I was outside of the city, in the middle of farmland, at a sweet little airport with limited departures and destinations.

The Flying Tigers and Luzhou

          The history of this air transportation service is amazing.
          The runway was built solely and painstakingly by Chinese hands in the very late 1930s, the first real runway in China that was not dirt and pebbles. It was specifically crafted with American backing for modern aircraft,  and was later used specifically by the Flying Tigers whose planes were not able to land on such tough terrain as it destroyed the wheels of their aircraft.
         As a reminder to those not familiar with the name Flying Tigers, here’s a little extra information which I found from the Internet:
         “The 1st American Volunteer Group (AVG) of the Chinese Air Force in 1941–1942, nicknamed the Flying Tigers, was composed of pilots from the United States Army, Navy, and Marine Corps, recruited under presidential authority and commanded by Claire Lee Chennault. The ground crew and headquarters staff were likewise mostly recruited from the U.S. military, along with some civilians.
          The group consisted of three fighter squadrons with about 20 aircraft each. It trained in Burma before the American entry into World War II with the mission of defending China against Japanese forces.”
         This airport has a more personal connection to me because I actually know the daughter (Jean Woo) of the Chinese engineer who worked closely with the Americans to create this runway.
Jean Woo and her husband, Rev. Franklin Woo, are Presbyterians who worked many years with the NCC (National Council of Churches) as the China experts. Before their retirement, the U.S. part of Amity orientations were led by the two of them.
Jean’s father, a native to the country, was sent to Luzhou as the head Chinese engineer of this runway project. Believe it or not, I do believe he is still alive! Over 100 and now living in the States.
I have bits and pieces of the story, as told to me by Jean from her father’s memoirs.
          The building was done by hand, including hauling rocks from the Yangtze which had to be crushed to make the foundation of the runway.   Assembly lines were made from the distant river to the airport, and buckets of rock were passed along or carried by single haulers to where the heavy stones were needed.  

           Huge, concrete rollers that weighed over a ton were used to smooth over the runway layers. These were pushed by the Chinese laborers. According to Jean’s reports, several died on many occasions when the rollers accidentally ran over them.
        Along with the laborers, as was the custom in China, the families came to live on the site as well. Hundreds of tents covered the area to accommodate the thousands who were building the airport’s runway. Both men and women contributed to the construction. Extended family members living there would be in charge of preparing meals. Children were racing about as well, playing and helping with chores. This was not a time when kids went to school, wartime and this being the lowest class of Chinese, those not educated and referred to as “peasants.”
         The conditions of the camp were a problem. Many hundreds died of sickness due to sanitation and just close quarters. Disease spread quickly. This was something Jean’s father had to deal with as the Chinese overseer of the project.

More Details Unknown

        I wish I had more details to share.  Jean can easily fill in the gaps.  I will have to contact her to receive more information.

        I do know that Jean and Franklin visited Luzhou over 5 years ago when I was still here. They came during an Amity Foundation anniversary celebration, with a group of interdenominational guests, to visit Amity’s many social service projects in Sichuan.
When the city officials learned who Jean was, the grand-daughter of the chief engineer responsible for building the runway, the two were treated as honored guests. They received an impressive VIP banquet by the Luzhou mayor and then a private tour of the current airport. It was the highlight of their first trip to Luzhou, which will probably be their last. They are in their upper 80s now and it’s getting more difficult for them to travel overseas. How wonderful that they were finally able to see the incredible results of Jean’s father’s work after so many years.

My Own Exprience

           My own experience of flying in and out of the Luzhou airport wasn’t quite as moving but knowing a bit of the history did give me a twinge of great respect and pride in the Chinese people for such an accomplishment.
          While small, this airport certainly deserves to be noticed and written about, if only via my little article published here.

         Until next entry, here’s wishing you Ping An (peace) for your day.

The first runway in China, with distant Luzhou in the background.

The first “real” runway built in China, with distant Luzhou in the background.  While restored many times, the foundation has remained as it did over 70 years ago.

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment