Christmas Has Arrived!

 

Christmas In China

 

            A last-minute weekend in Chengdu brought Little Flower and myself back to Luzhou with a suitcase full of new Christmas decorations and baking items. 

            To be honest, the last thing in the world I need is more Christmas stuff.  Years of overseas’ living has led to me collecting holiday items to display which I feel I must have. 

            When I first began teaching English in China 17 years ago, visual signs of  Christmas were rarely seen.  Christmas was hardly spoken of, much less understood.  I brought all my decorations with me, including lights, wall hangings, my crèche, and even a small boxed Christmas tree with ornaments.  I made a grand showing in my two-room guesthouse accommodations on the campus of Nanchang Normal University with a dazzling window of lights and decorations that had the students clustered outside every evening, enamored by its beauty.

            Christmas in China back then was definitely one of mysterious curiosity and awe.

            But now, commercialism has invaded cities and towns all across the country.  Christmas  glitz has overtaken not only the capital city, Chengdu, but our little Luzhou’s downtown district as well. Live Santa’s greet pedestrians at our department store entrances.  Internationally popular Christmas carols, in both English and Chinese, blare over loudspeakers.  “Merry Christmas!”  banners hang in every shop window, and sales clerks, looking chique and trendy in their Santa hats, greet shoppers flocking to Christmas sales. 

            Oddly enough, the majority of  Chinese have no understanding of the religious significance of the day, nor do they comprehend the meaning of the season for those of us who truly celebrate it.  To the Chinese, the draw is the popularity of purchasing “foreign” items, being posh enough to celebrate an international holiday, and (for shop owners) to cash in on a commercial goldmine among China’s middle to upper class consumers.

            Only those of us who attend the Chinese church and are Christians truly have an understanding of the significance of this day.  And because of this, it is our job to impart this same understanding to others. 

            At the Luzhou church, the Christmas Eve performance party, prayer services and Christmas day activities help the public grasp the religious meaning of Jesus’ birth.  All are invited to attend.  The church is always packed with non-believers who stop by to get a better idea about what Christians are so excited about every year come December 25th.

 

Christmas In The Classroom:  The Religious Meaning

 

            In my classroom, another kind of enlightenment is passed on to my own students during our Christmas lessons, which I have been doing for 20 years in an overseas’ setting.  

            My holiday unit is comprised of two parts:  Christmas: The Religious Meaning, and Christmas: Customs and Traditions. 

            Last week, we spent our time with the religious story from the Bible.  We go over the story outline on the board, including pertinent vocabulary words and important characters.  Visual aids are a must, which include hundreds of Christmas cards that depict scenes of the birth. 

            Students pour over these cards in awe and delight as they are impossible to find in China.  Sure, there are plenty of holiday cards to be bought in country but these are the commercialized variety with snowmen, Santa Clauses, reindeer, sleighs and Christmas trees.  Religion plays no part in card-purchasing here in mainland China so there are few, if any, religious cards to be found.   

            When our American Christian variety finally finds its way into their hands, after we’ve gone over the story so they know what they are looking at, the beauty of Christmas cards takes on a whole new meaning.

             I watch these young people pour over the cards’ pictures, eagerly passing them from one person to another.  They point out the angels, the stable, Mary, Jesus, Joseph, the shepherds, and the three wisemen.  They go over their new words, practicing out loud the pronunciation of Bethlehem, manger, frankincense and myrrh.  Some quietly gaze at the scenes, soaking it all in and envisioning the story which has just been related to them.

            My hope is that they will one day pass on this understanding to their own students, maybe even to their families during the Chinese New Year after they return home for the holidays.  They might meet those who are Christians in their community and be able to share with them what their foreign teacher taught them about this special Christian day. They might even pass by a church, remember our lesson together and go in to find out more about Christianity and these people who call themselves Christians.

            We’ve even had lessons where we re-enact the Christmas story, complete with props and make-shift costumes pulled out from my clothes’ stash.  A bathrobe becomes Joseph’s garb.  Tinsel acts as the angels’ halos.  A lace tablecloth, tied back with a ribbon, graces Mary’s head.  A stuffed animal wrapped in a towel becomes Jesus.  Narrators don Christmas vests and innkeepers hold high lighted lanterns.  Our three wisemen regally carry their gifts (a tin box, a vase, a bottle of perfume) to lay before the baby. 

            If you were to ever pass by our classroom at Christmastime, you’d certainly be in for a treat and a firm grounding in why Christians celebrate this day.

 

Christmas In The Classroom:   Customs and Traditions

 

            This week, we are fully diving into customs and traditions.  Christmas symbols fill the students’ hand-out:  Christmas tree, reindeer, Santa Claus, candy cane, Christmas wreath, Christmas stocking, poinsettia, and the list goes on.  A bag full of the items themselves only further adds to the excitement of the classroom.  During the break, these are snatched up with great enthusiasm and become immediate photo opportunities for those with cell phone cameras.    

            When I’m finally satisfied that we’ve gotten down both parts of the unit, it’s time to play Christmas bingo.  I created this game 10 years ago, making up 30 different bingo cards with pictured symbols of our unit, both the religious and the non-religious vocabulary we had learned.

            For the first game, I draw the pictures one by one from an envelope and call out the symbols. Students, working in pairs, cover the symbol’s picture called with a bit of paper.  Four covered symbols in a row send students jumping to their feet, shouting, “Merry Christmas!”  After checking the answers, the winning couple race to the front to receive their candy prize and take my place, now becoming the new teachers to begin a new game.

            The bingo game is a new concept for the Chinese, making it even more intriguing and fun.  It usually takes a few games for students to finally figure out the faster you call out the symbols, the faster someone will win, the faster you’ll get your candy and the faster another game can begin to start the process all over again. 

            Shouts of “Louder! Louder!”, “Say again!” and “Quickly! Quickly!” fill the room. Players repeat the words after the leaders say them. Partners correct one another when they wrongly pronounce words.   Shy students become more confident as they are suddenly placed in the role of being the teacher, not the pupil, and must lead the game by themselves. 

            The “Merry Christmas!” bingo game is always more than just a game.  For a teacher, it’s an invaluable tool that combines teaching methodology, language learning and confidence building all in one. And for the Christmas season, it’s a bearer of Christmas cheer and the festive spirit of the holidays.

            What better way to end our unit!

 

Young Fulbright Scholars About To Arrive

 

            If I’d had time, I would have included our usual Christmas carol singing and tree decorating but this year, I am about to receive 8 American visitors, Fulbright scholars who will be arriving at our school tomorrow.  These are recent graduates from the university who are studying the Chinese educational system as Fulbright award recipients, but they are based in Hong Kong. 

            Hong Kong is a far cry from the mainland, so to experience the “real” China, they are coming here to our small school.  The Amity Foundation recommended to the Hong Kong Institute of Education that these bright young people visit Luzhou because of my knowledge and involvement in the school over the past 5 years.  The English Department, foreign affairs department, school administrators and I have been working very hard during the past 3 months to arrange their schedule, packed with activities and events.   

            We are so fortunate that they’ll be living on our campus, in the guesthouse, for an entire week. They’ll be teaching with me in the classroom, giving lectures in the evenings, eating with the students, visiting dorm rooms and spending as much contact time with our young people as possible.  My students are so excited they can hardly contain themselves. 

            I’m guessing a lot of that energy thrown into the Christmas bingo game this week had a lot to do with the fact that so many American visitors were soon to arrive.  We have never had so many overseas’ guests on our campus before.  This should be a treat for everyone, including Little Flower.  She loves visitors, especially because she knows she can beg a few candies off of them when they visit.

            They’re arrival late tomorrow evening will be the start of a very busy week. Although it will be awhile until you next hear from me, be assured I’ll have lots of stories and pictures to share after they depart.

 

            From Luzhou, here’s wishing you “Ping An!” (peace) for your day and Merry Christmas!

Posted in Tales from Sichuan's Yangtze Rivertown, Luzhou | Leave a comment

Last Weekend’s News

 

A Friday of Student Events

           

            Friday found our main campus walkway overflowing with artwork.

            The Art majors were displaying their mid-term projects.  Hand-painted traditional scrolls, calligraphy, photographs, drawings, and animation characters rippled with the breeze while hanging on both sides of our boulevard.  We were fortunate to have a day without rain, meaning there was plenty of time for everyone to leisurely cruise by and enjoy the students’ creations.

            Yet a second display of sorts had to do with our English education majors.  Friday afternoon, the English department held their second Teaching Demonstration Contest for the graduating seniors.  These students I had during their freshman year but missed out last year as I was gone.  Many I hadn’t seen since we last had courses together.  Seeing them once again, this time in the role of an English teacher, was quite impressive.  We had 10 contestants who gave 20-minute lessons each for elementary to junior high students.  They chose their own units from authentic student text, created a lesson around it and then taught to their classmates while the judging panel (our staff) looked on.

            The variety of methods each student used was refreshing. Our “little” teachers didn’t just stand in front of the room, have students repeat after them and move on to the next page.  They enlisted sight, sound and touch to reach their visual, auditory, tactile and kinesthetic learners.  They had posters, props (basketball, present, cake), blown up photos, and even hand-made puppets.  They were cheerful and fun, with their classmates quickly coming to their aid every time they asked for volunteers.  They used songs and even rhythmic chorusing to get their points across.

             The most moving part was to see a majority using many of the teaching methodology tools and ideas which I had taught them 2 years ago.  They remembered!!   For me, that was the most rewarding experience imaginable:    Watching my own students take to heart what we had learned and use it successfully in the classroom.

           

The Saturday Search for A Bookcase

 

            A beautiful, sunny day on Saturday, along with another arrival of a Mail-bag from America filled with books, brought out the shopper in me.  It was time to purchase another bookcase for our growing English language resource library, courtesy of our United Methodist Women units who have sent monetary gifts for the Christmas season.

            Already, the case I had purchased 3 years ago was overflowing, not only with books but teaching equipment such as tape recorders, textbooks and left-over exam papers.  Since our tiny 2-room office has no place to store anything, teachers were using the bookcase’s underneath cupboard space for their things.  With more books needing to be shelved, and more teachers’ stuff thrown in, there just wasn’t any place to store it all.

            So this past Saturday, I finally made my long-overdue visit to the furniture shopping area near the sports’ stadium.  A little mom-and-pop place had just what was needed to match the one we already had.  After some bargaining, the price went down from $110 to $93, which I thought was fair.

            This new purchase now in the office, ready to be filled after it airs out.  For some reason, there is a nasty smell that has been lingering inside the closed cabinet and bookshelf spaces.  I’ve scrubbed it out with some cleaning supplies and while it’s much better now, it still needs perhaps another day before the books actually go in.

 

 

The Luzhou Church Renovation

 

            A few blogs ago, I reported on our Luzhou church’s 1913 sanctuary and roof getting some much needed help.  I was unaware of exactly what was going on.  I just thought a new roof was needed since the old one leaked, the worship center “stage” would be enlarged and some new balcony windows (ones with steel frames that opened and closed) were in order. 

            As it turns out, the church is undergoing more drastic changes than I thought.  After services in the low-ceilinged, concrete warehouse, Pastor Liao this last Sunday excitedly led me through the  sanctuary to show me all that had been done and was being done on the church. 

            The front doors were blocked so we had to enter by squeezing alongside the outside church wall and the building next to it.  From the side door, we entered a church which was still in shambles. Scaffolding was everything.  Piles of dirt were ready to be mixed for concrete.  Stacks of wooden beams and floor tiles were here and there.  And the construction workers were busy in all corners, cementing, sawing, drilling, hauling, laying bricks . . . It was a bit like watching Noah’s Ark go up in a rushed job before the flood.

            Not only has the roof been replaced but we now have a gorgeous wooden beamed ceiling with raises the sanctuary higher.  The wood has a natural stain which brightens the entire area.  These same wooden planks outline the balcony and will be holding paintings of Biblical characters.  The windows are now sealed tight with metal frames, easy to open, close and lock.  During the summer, it’s quite hot in the church so having the ability to get some air circulating was the main reason for that addition.

            There’s a back entrance now to the sanctuary with a small corridor where the pastors and choir members can slip in behind the pulpit without having to parade through the entire church.  Pastor Liao was especially excited about this for the upcoming Christmas Eve performance and worship service.  Now the performers can change their costumes in the corridor and surprise those watching without standing out in the open.  It also is extremely crowded in the church for Christmas Eve services.  Those getting ready to take the platform often had to fight their way through the crowds, trying to get to their spots.  The back corridor should certainly solve that problem.

            A second floor kitchen is being added for serving overnight visitors, and on the ground floor, an outer  enlarged toilet area will be built as well.

             If you’ve ever been to China and visited churches, most of them have the squat, trough-style toilets.  You just put your feel on either side of the trough and go.  Water then shoots through every 5 minutes or so to wash it out.  (Yes, it’s stinky and not pleasant to look at.)  These kinds of toilets are everywhere in well-trafficked public places.    Our school has them and so do most older churches. 

            I’m not sure what the new toilets will be like but they certainly have to be better than the tiny cubbyhole one we were using before.

            Another beautification feature will be floor tiles. Before, the church was merely concrete.  Now we’ll have a soft pink tile floor, even in the balcony, which will likewise give the sanctuary a brighter look.

            Pastor Liao told me the cost of the renovation was paid for entirely by the congregation with no outside help.  That’s quite an act of love coming from the congregation, mostly elderly and those will very little income, over the years.

            After our tour, Pastor Liao made sure to invite me to sing for the Christmas Eve services when the church project was expected to finally be finished. We are actually singing together, “Away in A Manger” in both English and Chinese.  Pastor Liao has a gorgeous, melodic voice and the expressions to go with it.  I think the two of us together will certainly make a very joyful noise unto the Lord, guaranteed.

 

Until the next entry, here’s wishing you a blessed Advent season and “Ping An!” (peace) for your day.

           

             

Posted in Tales from The Yangtze River | Leave a comment

Thanksgiving Day in China

 

Thanksgiving Day Begins with A Bang

 

            Darkness is nothing new along the Yangtze river at 7 a.m. It makes one want to stay snuggled under the warm comforter, especially as no heat brings room temperatures to around 50 degrees.  But this morning, Little Flower and I were certainly up and out in a hurry as a long string of firecrackers went off directly underneath my bedroom window, right alongside my 1st floor neighbors’ chicken and duck coops. 

            Happy Thanksgiving!

            The fire crackers had to do with the anniversary of someone’s death. This is a common way to remember loved ones in China by lighting candles at the temple and letting off firecrackers in their memory.  I just wish they’d have chosen another spot to do it at.

            My elderly neighbors were immediately out the door, checking on their frightened fowl.  The poor things were clucking and quacking in panic, wondering what in the world had happened.  Their caretakers soothed their agitation with soft coos. 

            To be honest, I didn’t feel all that sorry for their disruption.  My neighbors aren’t supposed to have these two-legged critters at all.  It’s forbidden by the school authorities to raise farm animals on school property, plus they can really stink up the place at times.  4 years ago when I was here, they raised only 2 chickens.  But now, after my return to Luzhou, they’ve increased their business to over 40 birds wandering about in their enclosed area.  A lot of the time, they get out, which is not too pleasant for anyone as they do use the toilet all over the place.

            Many  have complained.  They’ve told the school officials to do something about it but nothing has been done so far. 
            I doubt anything will.  In the meantime, we all just put up with the mess and the smell, hoping eventually some action will be taken.

 

A Thanksgiving Day Story from China 

      

            My second Thanksgiving Day at this school, I had very few students and was able to have a Thanksgiving Day dinner both in my home and also in the classroom.  At my home, we had everything except turkey, which is just not readily found in China.  (Chicken had to suffice.)  In the classroom, we created table settings, put up decorations and then brought our lunches from the cafeteria to eat together. 

            Now, however, I have 350 students with no access to classrooms due to courses always going on.  Instead, we just do the in-class lesson time with the highlight being how to create a gorgeous holiday table and then, later on, an evening Thanksgiving Day movie.

            My most memorable Thanksgiving in Luzhou has to be the year of our Thanksgiving Day dinner in the classroom, which was almost ruined by the dog. 

            Here’s the story in full.  Enjoy, everyone!

A Wishbone Tradition Gone To The Dog 

             

            When I was a child, I looked forward to my family’s Thanksgiving Day dinners, not so much for the food but more for the tradition of the wishbone.  Sitting at the table, I would anxiously watch as Dad carved the turkey.  Each slice of the knife would bring him closer to revealing what I had waited for all year.  He would eventually pull forth the wishbone from the bird and announce, “So, who wants a wish?”  

            I remember the excitement of grabbing one end of the wishbone as another family member took the other.

             “One, two, three, pull!” we’d shout.  A quick tug and “snap!”, the wish was granted to the one with the longest piece. 

I had longed to re-create this Thanksgiving Day tradition in my college English language classroom  in Luzhou, China.  Yet while the city’s markets were full of chickens, ducks, pigeons and doves, when it came to bigger birds, you could forget it.  Like a majority of Chinese, Luzhou’s Yangtze river folk were not into turkeys.  Thus I had always contented myself in teaching the history of Thanksgiving Day and leaving the rest up to Norman Rockwell, whose Thanksgiving Day magazine prints I posted on the blackboard.

But a few years ago, on a visit back to the States for the Chinese New Year holidays, I had a brainstorm.   Why not take a turkey wishbone back to China and give my students a “real” Thanksgiving Day?  The students and I could decorate the classroom.  We could set up tables and centerpieces.  We could bring our lunches from the student cafeteria and eat together as a class.  And for the grand finale to the meal, we could hold a drawing to see who would participate in the wishbone tradition.

The more I thought about it, the more enthusiastic I became.  I enlisted the help of my parents and together, we prepared a large turkey which came with it a magnificently large wishbone.         After cleaning and drying my wishbone prize, I carefully wrapped it in tissue paper and off the two of us went to China.

For nine months, I guarded that bone.  Each time I passed the drawer it was nestled in, I took a peek inside to make sure it was safe.

             No mold.

             No breaks. 

            No mouse nibbles.  

            Come November, I was determined my wishbone tradition would make Thanksgiving Day come alive for my Chinese college crowd.     

            When the fourth Thursday in November finally came, everyone was anticipating our noontime celebration.   The excited students gathered in the classroom and awaited my early arrival for decorating.  In my campus apartment, I was busy packing the holiday items I had painstakingly collected just for this occasion.  Into the box they went:   Thanksgiving Day banners, turkey door hangings, Pilgrim posters, tablecloths, and autumn centerpieces.  On the very top, in a plastic sandwich bag, was the precious turkey wishbone which I had so diligently guarded for nine months.

            After setting the box by the door, I went about getting ready to leave. 

            Teachers develop an uncanny ability for detecting suspicious sounds, so when the rustling began, I knew something was up.           

            I quickly made my way to the box.  There stood Little Flower, my 5-year-old Chihuahua.  A ripped baggie was at her feet and clamped between her teeth was the turkey wishbone.

           “Little Flower,” I warned, “you give me that.”

            My dog stood her ground. 

            “Drop it!”

            Her jaws tightened.

            Slowly, I reached out and gripped the exposed end of the bone. 

            I gave a careful tug. 

            Little Flower tugged back. 

            I tugged again. 

            Little Flower did the same.

            No matter how gently I pulled, Little Flower pulled harder until . . . . SNAP!   The wishbone broke in two.  And, wouldn’t you know it, I had the shorter end. 

             I was certain Thanksgiving Day was ruined.  I had put so much faith into the wishbone tradition that having Thanksgiving Day without it seemed unlikely.  But the fact is that the students had far too much fun decorating, eating together and enjoying the festive atmosphere to remember my tradition.   And as I became a part of their jovial community, I realized there had never been any need for a turkey wishbone to bring Thanksgiving to my Chinese classroom.  Holidays are not made by the things we prepare but by the people we’re with.     

            As Thanksgiving Day approaches once again, I have been planning more Thanksgiving Day activities for a new group of students.   After last time’s success, though, I’ve learned not to place too much stock in the wishbone tradition.  After all, although Little Flower got the longer end of the bone, I got the wish.

 

From Luzhou, wishing you and your family "Ping An" (peace).  Have a blesssed Thanksgiving Day!

              

 

 

Posted in Tales from The Yangtze River | Leave a comment

The Jinding Award Week

 
 

Arriving in Chengdu

 

            When LF and I arrived in Chengdu late last Tuesday night, I was tired. 
            The week before had been scurrying about to add another 6-hours of teaching to my schedule to make up for classes I’d be missing for the Jinding Award ceremony the following week.  Saturday was a full day with the city-wide speech contest, hosted by my school, with me judging the senior school students in the afternoon.   Sunday was church as usual with an afternoon spent with Li Xiao Lian (Cathy), my former departmental dean.  (Her son, Jack, is the one who is now attending  Beijing Aeronautical University.  I had written about his celebration party in a previous blog entry).              
            Cathy and I consider ourselves as sisters.  Her help in the Jinding Award department was to accompany me to a hair stylist for a good cut and then later to choose the appropriate wardrobe for the ceremony.   The hair went well but we had a bit of trouble with the sweater we both agreed I should wear.  There was a tear in the seam so we had to find someone to repair it.   Seamstresses are all over Luzhou, along every little alleyway, but the ones near my college were not in the mood to deal with us.  I ended up repairing it myself.
            Monday the entire day, and a booked-solid Tuesday morning, had me teaching my infamous Thanksgiving Day lessons.  First period is the history and second period is setting the holiday table.  The lesson goes at a fast clip with lots of activities and a bag full of props.  By the time dog and I were packed on the 3 p.m. bus to Chengdu, I was exhausted.
            Nor was it any fun to arrive in Chengdu in the evening, when taxies at the Wu Gui Qiao bus station refuse to take passengers unless they are traveling far distances.  My hotel wasn’t considered far enough for their interest so for 30 minutes, I was snottily waved away with a quick hand dismissal whenever I tried to get the two of us into a cab.
           Eventually, I sweet-talked a female driver into taking us, two "girls" from out-of-town who were cold, hungry and tired yet the men drivers refused to help us. 
           That "men drivers" reference pretty much won her over.   Off we went and were settled into our cheap little $14-a-night hotel by 8:30 p.m.

 

The Thursday Schedule 
          
            The schedule for the award activities was to have the foriegners check into the JinJiang Hotel (the first and oldest 5-star hotel in Sichuan Province) on Wed. at any time.  We would be given a schedule for Thursday’s plans after that and meet up on Thursday morning for an outing.   Our Chinese colleagues and representatives were not invited on any of these things, including hotel accommodations, and were merely to show up for the Thursday 5:00 ceremony to be audience participants. 
            From Luzhou, Catherine, from the foreign affairs office, and Ms. Deng, one of our three vice-presidents, would be coming but not until Thursday afternoon.  As always, they were extremely busy and couldn’t spare extra days to "play around" like I could.  
            As it turned out, I ended up staying with LF in my cheap hotel and shuttling back and forth from the JinJiang, which was only 15 minutes’ away by taxi.  I originally had asked Catherine to tell the Jinding committee organizers it was not necessary to book a hotel room for me for 2 nights, hoping that they could save some money ($125 a night), but they were keen to show their appreciation with a room so I let it go. 

 

Our Outing to Sanxingdui


            Thursday morning had us award winners all meeting in the lobby at 9 a.m. to visit Sanxingdui museum. 

            Sanxingdui is an ancient archeological site over 4,000 years old with very amazing finds that have been discovered nowhere else in China.  Those who lived in this area so long ago were master craftsmen for their time period, creating masks, bronze statuettes, stone statues and jade ringlets using tools which no one has yet found.  How they could create such smoothly and accurately carved objects is a mystery.  Also a mystery is what some of the artifacts were to be for, such as giant stone masks with protruding eyes (perhaps a god?), flat stone and jade disks, and odd-looking pipe trees whose branches are tipped by hollow metal birds. 
             I’d heard about this museum but had never been.  Although it’s only 1 hour outside of the city on the expressway, I never did manage to get myself in that direction all the years I’ve been in Sichuan.   The fact that now it was completely arranged for me, and I’d be traveling along with the selected group of other award winners, had me quite excited.  I was certainly up for meeting these other awardees, learning their names and their fields of expertise so I could further understand the difficulties Sichuan faces and how they’ve helped.
            I must say, the time we spent together in the van ride over to the museum, at the museum, talking over lunch and the return to Chengdu didn’t disappoint.  Our total 6 hours together ended up being the only time we truly had to get to know one another.  After that, we were whisked about here and there by leaders, to the ceremony, to dinner and then taking off afterwards.  Some were returning back to their countries that evening while others were visiting good friends or stopping by their Chinese partnership offices the next day to follow-up on their joint venture projects.

 

 Meet Our Fascinating Award Group

 

            It seems that of all the 11 awardees, only two of us (Gianluca from Italy and myself) actually were based in the province.  The others came and went from China during the year, some spending a few days, a week, a month or two at a time.  We had newbies to China, who’d only been working on China projects for 2 to three years, and  veterans, who’d had continuous contact since 1982.   I was somewhere in the middle, having first arrived here as a teacher in 1991.

            The opportunity to tell you about all these wonderful individuals I spent the day with is just too good to pass up.  There were only two I didn’t meet. One was Henry Clee from the US who was not able to come and Peter Tseng (Chinese-American) who flew in from Taiwan later on in the afternoon.   But for the others, here goes . . . .

           

            Ravi first began in China in 1986.  He was originally from India  but has been living  in Mexico for 25 years.  His field of expertise is in agriculture with wheat production and also crops that produce oil, such as  rapeseed.  China is the largest wheat producer in the world.  Ravi spends time working with the Sichuan Agricultural Department for better wheat production for its people.

            A similar role is played by Volker, a German biologist who likewise works in a similar fashion as Ravi.  Volker was an interesting fellow as he has been to and from China for many years.  His knowledge of Sichuan far surpassed any of us.  Volker had been to the Woolong Panda Reserve 10 times and was full of panda facts.  He was extremely interested in Sichuan’s traditional art world, such as Sichuan opera, mask changing (masks are changed by the actors at incredible speeds, almost like magic) and tea ceremonies.  His love of cats was obvious as he gave us plenty of cat stories from home about his 2 feline companions, 16 and 17 years old.

            Other “old” timers to China included Moris, a plastic surgeon from Israel.  Moris has played a key role in reconstructive surgery for breast cancer patients in the province.  These kinds of procedures are usually not thought of by women in China nor do doctors have the expertise to help them.  Moris has carefully worked side-by-side with top Chengdu surgeons to help teach the latest possibilities for women who have had masectomies.  What he is most famous for among officials, however, is his active and continuous help during the Sichuan earthquake.  He’s been flying back and forth since May, consulting with doctors and performing surgeries on disfigured earthquake survivors.  In fact, Moris was the one asked to give the award address on behalf of all of us as recipients.

            Our two other medical professionals were Phil Craig (Britain) and Gary Morsch (USA). 

            Phil had the most fascinating stories as he works in parasite control.  Weeks and months at a time, he and his team live in tents or small shelters among the Tibetan people in the far northern areas of Sichuan.  Parasites passed from animals to humans are the most troublesome, and deadliest, problems faced by those living on the harsh plains.  Poor hygiene due to lack of water for washing, cold (no heat so no one baths or washes much in the winter) and just cultural sanitation differences create an environment where worms and other nasty bugs invade the human system.  Phil explained that dogs and cattle especially carry these.  The worm eggs live in the feces and can withstand frigid temperatures plus survive for a long period of time.  They are easily passed by touching contaminated animal fur, then touching the face where the eggs enter through the nostrils.  Such worms are difficult to kill.  Other nasty critters attach to the liver, where there is no cure other than operating.  Due to poor hospital facilities in these remote areas (meaning you usually die on the operation table), and also a lack of money to pay for these expensive surgical procedures, most Tibetans don’t bother with treatment.  In other words, they die painfully after a long (or short) period of time.

            Phil and his team work with Tibetan farmers on how to control these parasites and what to do when you get them.

            Dr. Gary Morsch might be a name some of you have heard of.  He has written numerous books, including the New York Times best seller, The Power of Serving Others.   He is likewise founder and president of Heart to Heart International, a well-recognized and respected relief organization.  He has played an active role in Sichuan Province’s many areas of medicine, including sanitation.  Of course, the Sichuan earthquake had him here on consistant visits (and he still is) coordinating relief efforts for those still suffering with the quake’s aftermath.   

            Heinz, from Switzerland, works on and designs generators.  His newest ventures include those electrical plants heavily damaged or destroyed by the May earthquake.  One interesting thing about Heinz is that he was actually familiar with my website. His wife had googled “Jinding Award” before he left for China a few days before and there I was. 

            “Oh!” he said when I first introduced myself.  “You’re the young woman with the website!”

            Naturally, we had to take a picture together right away to post on my blog for his wife. (Yes, the picture’s included in the album below.)

            Dirk, from Holland, was the only one accompanied by his spouse.  Like a few others, he had traveled specifically to China to receive the award but planned to visit friends in the province afterwards.  Dirk’s area of expertise is in animal husbandry.

            Lastly, Gianluca, from Italy, was the baby in the group.  He’d only been in China for 2 years.  He is a designer of tool machinery used on assembly lines for vehicles.   As I mentioned before, Gianluca and I are the only ones actually living in country.  He works in the small provincial town of Zigong, just an hour from Luzhou, which is famous for three things:  a world-renowned dinosaur museum (fantastic!), salt (30% of the world’s salt comes from Zigong) and the Chinese paper lantern, which is said to have originated in Zigong.  Although people such as myself really enjoy small-town living, Gianluca said life was a bit boring in his place.  This is one reason why he has a private car, giving him freedom to drive to and from the capital city at any time or to other scenic areas.  He had considered having his wife and child (9) here but it was just too difficult to arrange. 

             

The Jinding Award Ceremony

 

            The ceremony itself was a very dignified, lovely affair with our Vice-Governor, Wei Hong, presiding along with a number of other provincial leaders.  As is customary, the leaders sat at a long table on the stage, overlooking the audience.  We awardees were at front-row tables with audience members behind us.  Those attending were local city and provincial government officials.  In my case, I  had representatives from my college unlike a few others who were pretty much on their own.

            Speeches were given with translators, of course, and we marched up one by one to receive both a certificate and a very prestigious-looking lacquered wooden box which held the Jinding gold medal inside.   It was a great honor to stroll across the stage when my name was called and shake the hand of our vice-governor. 

            I must say, however, that I couldn’t help but chuckle a bit as our award acceptance music filled the hall.  "The Magnificent Seven" movie theme song is always a favorite to be played at award ceremonies in China.  I have no idea why, nor do Chinese even know it’s a movie theme. I guess they think it’s a plucky, rousing melody that goes well with award ceremonies.  

          Anyway, there was a moment, as that infamous Western melody bounced along and I headed across stage, when I felt a horse trot coming on.  It’s a good thing I controlled my enthusiastic feet as I’m sure such a strange gait would have been totally lost on the Chinese, not to mention gotten me some very strange stares and whispers.

            A banquet afterwards whisked the awardees and officials to the 9th floor, overlooking the city, where we were given a bizarre fare of "blended" Asian-Western dishes.  This was probably the only part of the day that was somewhat a bust.  Not only did most of us pick through the odd concoctions before us but our Chinese hosts left their plates untouched as well.  It was such a shame, too, because I’m sure this “special” meal was a pricey one.  We would all have done far better if the chef had stuck with what he knows best to do:  100% Chinese cuisine.

           

Afterthoughts

 

            Now back in Luzhou, Dog and I are settling into our usual routines.  We’re now awaiting the arrival of 8 Fulbright scholars to our school who’ll be here for a week as my teaching assistants. (More on that later). 

             The Jinding Award day has passed and seems far away, but the thoughts of the wonderful people I met are very clearly pictured in my mind.  After often meeting rude foreign tourists and “ugly” Americans who have little tolerance for China or the Chinese people, it was such a great privilege to be among those like myself who truly love “our” China.  Our conversations centered not on cultural annoyances and personal complaints, but on our work here, our great respect for colleagues, our admiration for the government leaders, and our excitement and joy of being a part in helping others.

             This was a very special group of people, all who truly deserved to be honored for their time and energy spent here in Sichuan with the Sichuan people.  How very blessed I feel to have been included in their numbers.

 

            From Luzhou, wishing you as always “Ping An!” for your day.      

              
           
           

 

Posted in Tales from Sichuan's Yangtze Rivertown, Luzhou | Leave a comment

A Silenced Road

 

 

           My apartment balcony, overlooking the Yangtze River, remains oddly silent.  From the usually busy road below, there’s not a sound:   no beleaguered busses straining uphill, no constantly sounding car  horns, no boisterous motorcycle mufflers, no screeching-tired taxies, no private cars zooming,  no distressed construction trucks shifting gears . . . Nothing but quiet drifting upward to my 2nd floor home.

            Where is all this lovely peace coming from?  Since October 28, our obnoxiously noisy Yangtze river road has been closed. 

            For years, this  road has been a cause of headache as more and more traffic traveled upon it.  River towns up and down the Yangtze from us use our Wa Yao Ba Road to reach one another. Buses bound for Yibin, Jiangan, Naxi, and numerous others stop constantly along their 1-3 hour routes to let passengers off and on.  Two vocational colleges (ours and the Sichuan technical college just a few blocks away) bring city buses and other vehicles to and from our gates.  Fang Shan (Fang Mountain), a scenic hiking spot a mere 20 minutes away, sends weekend tourists by the hundreds driving by.  

            Wa Yao Ba was never made for this much traffic. The city temporarily fixed some of the hazardous spots right before I left.  They lined the drop-off areas with concrete blocks  so cars wouldn’t run off the pavement.  Before, it was easier for a  to go careening into the ancient wooden and mud-plastered houses hugging the road.  At least the concrete barriers helped a bit to dissuade cars from getting too close to the edge.

            Another problem has always been no sidewalks.  Local residents and our college students have always been at risk of being hit and sent flying when going out to the small shops lining the way.   That danger is not to be fixed anytime soon so we just take our lives into our own hands when venturing out.

             But the most annoying part of the road has always been the short, narrow bridge.  The bridge passes over a deep gully which is sometimes flooded by the Yangtze. It’s not very long, nor much to look at, and has probably been standing for years.  Part of the problem is that it’s so narrow that anything wider than a taxi can’t get by without waiting for the road to clear. I can’t tell you how many Wa Yao Ba traffic jams I’ve sat through with buses, trucks and cars piled up on either side of the bridge.  Each long line of vehicles was waiting for one side to cross the road so the other could begin.  No traffic cops made it somewhat of a free-for-all with impatient private car owners meeting buses head-on in the middle, then having a show-down on who will back up first.  When there’re 10 other cars bumper to bumper behind both headstrong drivers, you can imagine the ruckus that follows.      

            Horns blare. 

            Tempers flare.   

            Shouting matches ensue.

            And the worst part is no one goes anywhere for a very long, long time.   Those in taxies or buses usually give up and hike it up the road to where they’re going.   A 10-20 minute walk is sure a lot better than a 2-hour sit while the men (and it’s always the men) hash it out who gets to go first. 

            Because Wa Yao Ba is the only easy route to and from the city, rebuilding the bridge was never an option.  Yet this year, we have a brand new access road that leads directly into the city center, cutting our travel time almost in half.   Wa Yao Ba Road now has a great detour alternative. 

            And so it is that the narrow bridge, so much a pain before, is being rebuilt, thus bringing silence to our little part of the campus until February 10, the completion date.

            The silence is golden, but there are more personal perks of this road closure than quiet.

            First of all, we don’t have to take our lives into our own hands when exiting the school gate.  The traffic that whizzed by was in no hurry to slow down when hundreds of students streamed to the bus stops after classes.  No sidewalks had everyone basically teetering on the edges of the roadway, trying stay out of the way of oncoming vehicles while not slipping into the sewage ditches on either side.  On several occasions, there were some awful close car clips when I was out there.  Not pleasant, especially with Little Flower trotting along beside me.

            Another nice part of having no traffic is the less polluted environment.  No longer is dust kicking up all around us, sticking to our clothes and invading our lungs.  While eating outside along the little restaurants lining the roads, students no longer have to shield their dishes from flying clouds of dirt.  Nor do they have to shout at one another above the motors and horns.  Everyone can enjoy a nice, quiet meal off campus without ear-splitting, or road-spitting, distractions.  

            But the greatest perk of the closure concerns the many snack venders that now have positioned themselves all along our road.  Piping hot sweet potatoes, straight from their barrel baking ovens, and freshly popped popcorn, lightly carmelized, are being offered to the right of the school gate.  It’s hard to miss them as the sellers have placed themselves right on the walking path of the students.  Without the cars, it’s a great spot for catching hungry young folk looking for cheap winter goodies. 

            Up the road another 50 feet and we have a specialty steamed item of Harbin waiting for us.  Harbin is the capital city of Hubei Province, far to the north of Beijing.  It’s claim to fame is the International Ice Sculpture Festival, always held around the Chinese New Year.   Every province has its well-known snack foods.  Harbin’s steamed sticky rice blocks dotted with dried fruit have finally reached us here.  A certain company makes these in town, then sends out hired help to sell them on the street from their barrel steamers.  I’d never seen this snack before so I bought some the other day for a try.  The woman selling sliced off a nice chunk, sprinkled with dates and raisins, which she weighed and then presented to me in a plastic bag.  It was $2.00 (about $1.00 per pound), which is rather pricey but specialty foods are always pricey outside of their own areas.  It was sticky and gummy, slightly sweet, and tasted better right away rather than later after it had cooled off.  I didn’t eat the whole thing but was glad to at least have a taste. 

            Next time, I’ll know better than to have the seller cut off such a large piece unless I have someone to share it with.

            What I’m anticipating to show up along our empty road are the cold weather, roasted chestnut sellers.  They are everywhere in Chengdu.  The sights and sounds of chestnuts being tossed in woks among hot coals can be found at every corner.  On a chilly day, there’s nothing like carrying around a warm paper bag of chestnuts, peeling them from their soft shells and popping one into your mouth.  It makes me feel as if I’m strolling along the streets of a Charles Dickens’ novel.  

            Of course, Luzhou is warmer than Chengdu so our chestnut sellers are a bit behind the winter schedule.  There are a few in the downtown district on weekend nights but they haven’t yet found their way to the daytime crowds.  I’m guessing December 1st will bring them around. 

            Lucky for me, I’ll be heading off to Chengdu soon for the award presentation on Thursday.  I’ll have plenty of opportunity to get my hot chestnut fix while I’m there.  Even Little Flower has a fondness for chestnuts.  Better to peel them for her, though. She’s been known to chomp them down whole, shell and all.

            At least for our Thanksgiving Day dinner, there won’t be any skimping on sweet potatoes since they’re right outside the gate.  No turkey as China doesn’t have turkeys but chicken can suffice.   And how nice it will be to have a quiet noontime Thanksgiving for a change, without the cars and busses racing up and down the river road to disturb our peacefulness.   And maybe, just maybe, our chestnut sellers will pop over to our area a tad earlier than December 1st .

            Roasted chestnuts for Thankgiving!  If you can’t have turkey, go for the next best thing.      

 

            From Luzhou, here’s wishing you “Ping An!” (peace) for your weekend.

           

                                     

 

Posted in Tales from The Yangtze River | Leave a comment

A Great Honor

            

             Last Friday, Ying Yin (Catherine), from our school’s Foreign Affairs office, asked me to stop by and pick up something. 

            “Ah!  Another mail bag of books for our English language resource library!” I thought to myself. 

            The donated books several groups and individuals have sent this semester often land in Catherine’s office.   The most recent arrivals to stock the shelves were from Wesley UMC’s mission committee in Canton, IL and two big ones  from Clemson UMC in South Carolina.   

            It’s always a thrill for me to begin unloading these canvas bags, seeing what titles will now grace yet another bookcase in the English departmental office.  But this trip to the Foreign Affair’s office brought on a different kind of excitement.

            Catherine was proud to present to me an official greeting and letter from the Sichuan Provincial Administration of Foreign Experts Affairs.  It seems that I have been chosen to receive the province’s highest honor given to foreign experts, the Jinding Award.

            According to the letter, the Sichuan Jinding Award was established by the People’s Government of Sichuan Province to thank and commend foreign experts for their contributions and dedication to the training of Chinese personnel.  These professionals, from a wide variety of fields, have contributed to Sichuan’s social development, economic, scientific, technological, educational and cultural construction.  They were chosen through  nomination from their work unit, the recommendation of their local city government  and the approval of the Jinding Award committee. 

            I was chosen along with six other foreign experts of various fields to receive the honor for the year 2007.  Our award ceremony is to be held on November 20 in Chengdu and is being combined with the 2008 winners. 

            Looking over the list of honorees, I saw 5 of us are from America, 2 from Germany and one each from Italy, Israel, India and Holland.  7 are from the capital city, Chengdu, while the rest of us are from smaller cities in the province.  While it’s difficult to tell which field everyone is in (only their work units are mentioned), it looks like I’m the only teacher.  The others are hosted by government agencies in health, agriculture and science. 

            One of the most surprising discoveries for me was that I’m the only woman!  Looks like  I’ll have no difficulty standing out among so many distinguished gentlemen.  And being a rather vain woman, of course the first thing that popped into my head was, “Gracious!  What in the world am I going to wear?!”  We’re to be toured about the city, televised and featured in several newspapers so it had better be something spectacular. 

            Vanity aside, this is a truly a great honor, not only for myself but for the Amity Foundation, the United Methodist Board and my small Luzhou college.  I honestly credit this award a great deal to my school, whose administrators and English language staff are always willing to listen to my ideas and help implement these within the curriculum.  So often foreign language teachers here become frustrated because their Chinese colleagues and school show little interest in their efforts. The foreign teacher asks for help but the response is quickly dismissed with, “It’s too difficult” or “Not such a good idea.”  My school is always happy to read over my proposals, give suggestions about do-ability and work with me to see things happen.  It might be as simple as helping arrange a one-week use of an audio-visual classroom to more daunting tasks, such as regulating a city-wide English language speech contest.   When a professional in my EFL field is given this kind of support and enthusiasm from her Chinese college, her students and her colleagues, it makes it easy to become an above-average educator.

            Because I will be leaving next Tuesday for the 2 days of activities scheduled for us “experts,” this week I’m making up my classes I’ll be missing next week.  It’s a bit of a shuffle to squeeze in an extra 8 hours.  I feel so sorry for my students who are having to cram in yet more classroom time into their already busy schedules but they have been so kind about it.  I expected  my 2nd years to drag themselves (moaning and groaning) into Room 4203 this evening for our arranged 7-9 p.m. make-up.  Instead, they bounded in with high spirits, laughing and quite talky.  They were very gracious about helping me out in this way.  Their positive, upbeat attitude really made our time together full of fun. 

            Most of next week will be spent in Chengdu as I load up the dog and head off to the capital city on Tuesday, returning on Sunday.  Little Flower will be staying with Jalin’s family while I’m busy with the city tours and the ceremony the government is arranging for us.  Our hotel accommodations are also taken care of by the provincial government.  I certainly will be spoiled after an overnight in a fancy hotel.

            Thursday to Sunday, I will move back to my small hotel near Jalin’s family where I can enjoy home-cooked meals every night once again.  I am so much looking forward to seeing Jalin and her parents.  It’s been a month and I miss them.

            Be watching for updates on the rest of the week, including this Saturday’s city-wide English language speech contest.  Our school is hosting the event for area college students in the morning and high school students in the afternoon.  I’m the judge for the high school competition and am really looking forward to some excellent performances from Luzhou’s teenagers.  Quite a few of these young language learners really are truly remarkable in their command of English.  I’m sure they won’t disappoint any of us judging.

            Until next time, here’s sending you a “Ping An!” (Peace) for your day.

     

                

   

 

                         

 

Posted in Tales from The Yangtze River | Leave a comment

Election Day Stories

              
                 I have only voted once in America for a Presidential election.  All my other ballots have been sent from overseas:  Japan, Taiwan and China.  No matter what political party we favor, I truly believe in the importance of voting.   Every vote matters, not because it might sway an election but because of the unique feeling of having a say we each feel when choosing the leaders of our government.
                For today, I’d like to share with you the following essay which appeared in the Christian Science Monitor’s Home Forum page four years ago.  Our quaint little post office, from where I used to send and receive my mail, is no longer in use. It’s been converted into a family noodle restuarant which caters to the vocational college next to ours.  My vote this year was sent express global mail from a small town called Naxi (nah-shee) which is 30 minutes from Luzhou.   While not quite as nostalgic as four years ago, it was still well worth the $22 to get it to the States on time.  
              Here’s hoping your election day brings out the crowds in your towns and cities.  Be sure to be in one of them!
  
              From along the Yangtze, here’s sending you "Ping An!" (peace)    
 
A Voting Sojourn Up the Yangtze
 

               If  I were voting in my small town in America, I would enjoy a peaceful visit to the polls.  I would leisurely walk uptown, passing by tidy lawns, well-kept houses and neatly paved streets on my way to complete my civic duty as an American.   But here in southwestern China, I gear up for a more adventuresome voting sojourn.  At last, my absentee presidential election ballot has arrived and I must pick it up at our area post office, located up the Yangtze river road from the college where I teach English.

Our small countryside post office is only a 10-minute walk from the school.  The distance may be short, but getting there is tricky.  Speeding buses and swaying construction trucks are constantly careening by.  Their blaring horns scatter stray chickens and dogs, and warn bystanders of their approach.  With no sidewalks or pedestrian walkways, the road becomes somewhat of a deathtrap.  

            Today, I am lucky.   I exit the school’s gate and find safety in numbers.  I slip in behind three coal sellers who are pulling their heavy loads on wooden carts.  We four move tentatively.  On one side, we keep diligent watch over oncoming traffic.  On the other, we take care not to slip into open sewage ditches. 

            While carefully making our way forward, we pass typical scenes of roadside China.  Family-run shops display a disarray of dusty products.  At the entranceways, owners position themselves on stools and patiently wait for customers. To pass the time, they knit sweaters, pluck chickens, wash vegetables and read newspapers.  Sometimes we pass a mahjong parlor, set up inside an abandoned farmhouse.  The elderly crowd around  the game’s square tables and slurp tea while noisily slamming down mahjong tiles. Through open doorways of private homes, we can see flames shoot out from under blackened woks.  The smells of Sichuan cooking reach us, stinging our nostrils with the vapors of hot chili peppers.  

            As my destination draws near, the coal haulers turn down an alleyway and I am left to continue by myself.  I wait for several buses to fly past, then make a dash across the road to the post office. 

Our area post office is a small, white-washed mud building. The roof is layered in old clay tiles.  Rustic wooden beams jut out through the outside walls.  To enter the building, I must first make my way through  a cluster of sidewalk sellers and their wares.  Stationery, envelopes and cardboard boxes cater to the mailers.  Fruit, hard-boiled tea eggs and sizzling beef kabobs entice the hungry.   The arrival of a foreigner always causes a fuss.  After being accosted by several sellers to buy their goods, I give in and purchase some envelopes and a tea egg.      

            With my purchases in hand, I am finally able to enter our local post office. Inside, a long counter with iron bars separates the customers from the two postal workers on duty.   I watch them bustle about while serving the Chinese ahead of me.  They adhere stamps to envelopes, fill out forms, check package slips and answer questions.  They toss packages into heaps on the floor and drag out overstuffed mail bags for pick-up.  It seems a haphazard system and a bit chaotic, but I have never once had a posted item from the U.S. lost or returned to the sender.        

                When it is my turn, I present my overseas’ letter collection slip to the postal attendant and wait.  After some digging about in a wooden box, she returns with a soiled white envelope.   She painstakingly checks the envelope’s numbers with those on the slip. 

Finally, she hands over what has traveled half-way around the world to reach me:  my presidential election ballot.  

                With my mission accomplished, I take time to visit the nearby Buddhist Pure Spring Temple.  For over 100 years, its insulated courtyards have offered worshipers a place of solitude from the turbulent world outside.  From here, I look out over the sleepy, hazy Yangtze River and meditate to the rhythmic chugging of passing boats.  I hold my ballot in hand and consider the power this one vote from China has in any democratic election.    

             Is it worth another trip to the post office and the global express postage needed to guarantee an election day arrival?  

            Ask my hometown’s County Clerk.  By now, he is placing my vote in the ballot box, already knowing I retraced my steps back up the Yangtze River road.  This time, the journey was a little less adventuresome and a lot more meaningful.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted in Tales from The Yangtze River | Leave a comment

A Pro In Action: U.S. Visitor Richard Lord

 

             Since last Sunday, the rain has been coming down non-stop.  Drizzling, pouring, pelting, sprinkling, misting . . . you name it, we’ve had it.

             It’s unusual for us to have so much constant rain for so many days.  It’s also unusual for me to have overseas’ visitors but I did.  Richard Lord, hired by the United Methodist GBGM, was here in Asia photographing personnel in their working environment.  Richard has been used by the Board for 20 years and is quite familiar with the work of the Methodists and other denominations.  Twelve years ago, he did a photo spread for GBGM of  The Amity Printing Press and Amity projects in China. Now, more than a decade later, he returns to China to visit me in my little Yangtze river town, Luzhou. 

            Richard arrived late Wednesday evening from the airport in Chongqing, 3 1/2 hours away by bus.  The next day, he spent time in my classroom taking pictures among my second year students.  He was very impressed by their ability to follow my lessons, which naturally made “mother” (me) very proud!   We were supposed to be touring the school, back alleyways and church for more photo shoots Friday and Saturday but the weather was just not cooperating.  Aside from me, Richard was to do shots of poverty and healthcare in China.   Richard did his best to catch drenched scenes among the Yangtze  fishermen in their sampans, laborers, and dilapidated homes but  the continuous rain basically canceled out any decent photo ops aside from me.

 

The Luzhou Church’s Gospel Clinic

 

            We did hit the jackpot at the Gospel Clinic run in cooperation with the Amity Foundation, the Luzhou Protestant Church and the local government.  The United Methodists have given money through Amity for this three-room Western and traditional Chinese medicine clinic, with adjacent pharmacy.  Saturday morning, it was filled with elderly receiving Chinese medicine treatments for arthritic aches.  Pungent poultices were applied to painful joints and then heated under lamps.  Acupuncture was used on some.  One gentlemen was receiving  electric pulses from a machine which our Methodists help to purchase along with other funds from Amity.

            Pastor Liao was with us for a short time in order to make sure everyone knew Richard was with me and not some foreign guy off the street looking to expose something sinister about their country.  As a professional, Richard had to set scenes and poses, getting quite close to both patients and doctors in order to do his job properly.  Everyone was extremely cooperative and didn’t mind his presence at all. 

            While Richard was busy with his photo shoots, I became busy with mine.

            In church last week, some announcement was made which sounded to me like the church would be closed and we’d be having worship next door.  I didn’t catch everything and thought I had misunderstood.  Yet upon arrival at the clinic, which is next to the church, I found out my Chinese listening comprehension isn’t that bad after all.

            Even in this dreadful rain, work was going about inside to make a new cement platform (a much larger one) for both worship and other celebrations, such as the upcoming Christmas pageants.  Pews have all been moved out, ladders are everywhere, and a huge pile of sand sat ready to be mixed by hand for the concrete.  Upstairs in the balcony area, the windows had been torn out, perhaps to make them larger or smaller. 

           With this rain, the cement was not drying well at all. Everything was damp, wet and smelly with workers coming and going.

            The only ministry-related activity going on was one of our elderly Christian ladies in the outer area.  She was making the communion wafers we’d be using in church tomorrow.  I always wondered about our bits and pieces of torn-apart wafers.  Where did they come from?  Who made them?  What exactly were these paper-thin things?  Here was my answer. 

            Using coal cylinders to cook over, our communion wafer maker applied a batter to two iron plates.  These were pressed together and heated over the hot coal for a minute or two, being turned from one side to another.  After that,  the thin crepe was peeled off and placed on a pile with others in a tin basin.  Not only was she making for our church community (500) but the outerlying meeting points as well.  I was told she needed to make about 200 of these by tomorrow.                 

            Gracious!  Those are a lot of communion wafers!
            As I watched her carefully prepare these important items before Pastor blessed them, I couldn’t help thinking what a wonderful way to serve your church.  No matter how old or young you are, how much education or money you have, there’s always something vital that you can do for your church community.  In America, it might be tidying up the nursery, cleaning out the kitchen cupboards, or making sure the altar is dusted.  In Luzhou, here our elderly have the glorious mission of making communion wafers for the entire surrounding Christian community.  What a great way to serve the Lord! 

            Certainly made me pause to think what I’ve done for my Luzhou church community lately. 

            Pastor Liao was  keen to pull me away from the in-shambles sanctuary and lead me into the building next door where our makeshift services would be held.  The second floor belongs to the church and has a Christian service center, senior citizen’s center, as well as a children’s daycare and language school.  We tromped through the hallways to enter a huge concrete warehouse type area. The pews were tidily lined up for worship under an arched skylight of sorts. 

            The place itself was actually somewhat open to the elements as it wasn’t  fully enclosed, only roofed.  The restaurant located next door had me coughing  as the open kitchen directed all the smoky wok smells and spicy stir-fried hot peppers directly over our heads. 

            We’ll be safe tomorrow morning for an hour or so but with communion, which usually closes our worship around 11:30 a.m. instead of 11, we’ll most likely be competing with food prep for the hungry lunch crowds a few doors down. 

            After Richard’s successful healthcare photo shoot, it was off to McDonalds for a quick lunch, a dash to the hotel to pick up his things and finally a taxi ride to the long distance bus terminal.  Richard was leaving from the Chongqing airport for Beijing on Sunday afternoon.  Since the ride was 3 ½ hours, we figured it was better to get him there a day early rather than chance a late arrival on Sunday, especially in all this slippery rain.  The expressways in China are known for accidents, especially when the weather is bad and drivers speeding eagerly to get where they’re going.

            Richard’s business with the Board is now officially over with me having been the last stop.  His next job has him in Beijing, working for Coca-cola and doing some work for them.  After that, he’s returning to the States.  

           

When It Rains, It Pours           

              

            Now that Richard is gone, I’m forced to turn my attention to the bedroom ceiling.

            Early Friday morning, I was surprised. while sleeping, by a very chilly drip that bolted me upright.  Little Flower has very little drooling capability so I knew it wasn’t her.  Sure enough, over my head the ceiling was lined with water marks.  Huge drops were accumulating and falling downward onto my fluffy comforter, barely missing my cozily nestled Chihuahua.

            After reporting this to Catherine (Yin Ying), the foreign affair’s director of our school, she called the building manager.  It seems the poor man has been getting a lot of such calls lately.  There’s a broken water pipe on the 5th floor which is now affecting all of us underneath.  The building is so old that all the pipes need to be replaced but in this rainy weather, it’s virtually impossible.  The workers have to tear out old piping to replace with new and then cement it in.  Chinese cement just doesn’t dry well at all in wet weather so we are all stuck with dripping water for awhile. 

            Yesterday, the leak was a drop or two the entire day but we are now into a number of very large drops for every minute. 

            I’ve scrunched everything to one side of the bedroom and placed my bucket underneath the leak.  I just pray the dripping water doesn’t spread the length of the ceiling.  Currently, it’s just one isolated spot but the longer we wait, I’m sure the bigger that isolated spot will get.

            I guess the saying is true that when it rains, it pours. In my case, it’s just a bit more literal than in most.

            Here’s hoping you enjoy the pictures from the past few days, including our Halloween movie night along with Richard’s visit.

 

            From Luzhou, here’s once again wishing you “Ping An!” (peace) for your weekend.

 

Posted in Tales from The Yangtze River | Leave a comment

Halloween Done Just Right

 

           “I love you!” one of my college students, “Angie”, enthusiastically shouted while I threw a handful of candy into her bag.  “Can I hug you?”

            How often does Halloween fun, in this case trick-or-treating to the foreigner’s home, bring on that kind of reaction!

            These past two weeks have been devoted to Halloween in my English majors’ second year classrooms.  Part of our lesson time together covers holidays and traditions of America, such as Christmas, Thanksgiving, Valentine’s Day and Mother’s Day.  October is the month for Halloween.  It’s always the first special Amercian custom that we cover for the new semester so I try to do it up just right. 

            Because these students will be future elementary and junior high school English teachers, and because the textbooks their students use have a unit on Halloween, it’s important that they get all the information necessary to make sure they are well-qualified to teach such a unit.  I’ve gone over several older Chinese elementary and junior high school English texts that refer to Halloween as a Christian holiday.  All Hallow’s Eve, followed by All Saints Day, does have some Christian connections but it certainly is not a Christian holiday, or any holiday for that matter.   It’s a tradition descended from over 2,000 years ago from the Druids.  I certainly wouldn’t be doing my duty as a good Christian, or a veteran teacher, to unleash novice teachers into China’s schools with the idea that Christians celebrate Halloween as a Christian holiday.  Ouch!

            Thus the two weeks on Halloween.  

            Our Halloween unit covers the history of the day, how the customs came about, and what Americans (mostly children) do to celebrate this day.  In class, the students sample trying on costumes, re-enacting trick-or-treating, and bobbing for apples.  They always go crazy over the pumpkin I’ve carved as an example of a jack-o-lantern.  Those with digital camera cell phone abilities spend the entire 10-minute break posing with the lit pumpkin, wearing the witches’ hat and masks, and racing about dressed as the sheeted ghost. 

            Our days this week have been spent getting ready for next week’s Halloween unit test and making masks for visits to my home for trick-or-treating.  Students are required to wear their masks, bring a bag and come to my home for their goodies. Each class has a specific time to descend upon my little apartment in small groups. 

            As the appointed time comes, I can always tell of their arrival.   My second story balcony brings many gasps and shouts of “How beautiful!” from those glimpsing it for the first time.  The pumpkin glows his greeting while orange paper luminaries with smiling and frowning faces gaze down on them.  In the darkness, and the cool October temperatures, there is definitely a feeling of an American Halloween night in the air.

            Tromping noisily up the stairs, I finally hear the groups gathering on the landing.  They’re whispering in Chinese outside of my door:  “Knock on the door!”  “Quiet!  She’ll know we’re here.”  “Is this the right apartment?”

            Their shy hesitation can last anywhere from a few seconds to up to several minutes.  I, meanwhile, peer through the door’s peek hole from time to time or sit impatiently with a huge basin of candy in my lap. 

            Of course, I could open the door and invite them in but that spoils the entire experience of the evening.  They’re supposed to knock, they’re supposed to raise their masks to their faces and they’re supposed to shout “Trick-or-Treat!”

            Although it sometimes takes awhile, there’s eventually one brave soul who leads the way with a knock, the door opens and in they bound with “Trick-or-Treat!  Trick-or-Treat!  Trick-or-Treat!” filling my small outer room.

            I certainly am not the stingy one when it comes to goodies, either.  Everyone gets a huge handful of the best wrapped candies I could buy.  These students are poor and rarely purchase the truly tasty sweets.   Instead, they settle for the mundane cheap ones.  But on my Halloween watch, my trick-or-treaters get the best of the best. 

             It certainly seems to be worth the effort, too.  Excited, happy students shout “Thank you!” as they scoot down the stairwell, many already ripping into their candy wrappers to see what lies inside.

            As for me, I get shouts of “I love you, Connie!” and hugs from sweet students such as Angie.  

That’s certainly enough reward for me.

            Two more trick-or-treat nights to go, then it’s the Disney movie “Casper” in the classroom building’s only large power-point lecture hall on Friday night.  It’s a long hike up to the 6th floor and the room only holds 120 (I have 180) so I imagine it’ll be a  tight fit.  I’ve already warned everyone they’ll most likely have to bring chairs from the lower-level classrooms.  As you know from the last entry, they’re getting pretty used to dragging chairs around so there shouldn’t be too many groans of inconvenience.  Getting them to put the chairs back after the movie . . . . , well, that might be a different story.

            Here’s hoping your trick-or-treaters this year were worthy of their goodies.  Mine certainly were!

            From Luzhou, wishing you a Halloween week’s “Ping An” (peace)

 

Posted in Tales from The Yangtze River | Leave a comment

Musical Chairs: Dealing with a Classroom Seating Dilemma

 

The 20-minute scramble and panic in between classes is immense.  Students race frantically from room to room, snatching up a chair and moving it from one classroom to the next.  Some politely carry their school furnishings while others lazily drag them along, the metal legs screeching agonizingly against the hallway floor.  Not surprisingly, the misused ones lose a screw or two along the way, sending the seat flopping backwards or leaving one of the legs behind.

The abusing students groan then disappear into another classroom to exchange their broken item with a sturdier one.

            Even after the bell rings, a few stragglers are still searching for seats.

            This chair dilemma started three weeks ago with the arrival of  2,000 freshmen students to our campus.  Our one classroom building, which opened 3 years ago, was built with theater-style pull down seats and long desktops in a number of rooms but others still have movable desks and chairs.  These are much like our US grammar school furniture.   The desks have an underneath compartment for storing books.  The wooden chair seats and backs have double bar legs attached by screws. This old-style equipment was brought over from the old classroom building (now a dormitory) after years of use so you can imagine what shape many are in.  Not great.

            At first, the scramble to find seats was a small annoyance.  Usually, it was just a matter of walking next door and grabbing up an extra chair from the back of another classroom.

            But three weeks later, after more chairs have broken up, it’s become a real pain.  Students are rushing up and down floors, gazing hopefully into the back of lecture halls to find a few usable stray chairs that might be around.  In many cases, they don’t find them.

            I encountered this very problem last Monday afternoon in my 2:40  class.

 The 3rd floor is filled with classrooms of desks and chairs.  Entering the room at 2:30, I began writing the lesson directions on the blackboard. The students shuffled in to find places to sit with several rushing outside from time to time to pull in a chair from somewhere else. 

            The real problem came when the bell rang and 4 of the girls were standing at desks at the back of the room.

            “Try the 5th floor,” I told them.  “Look at the back of the rooms.  They often have chairs.”

            Giggling with embarrassment, the girls ran out as I started the lesson but they returned within 1 minute.

 I knew they hadn’t gone anywhere because they were back too soon.  They probably just stood outside the room to make it seem as if they’d gone someplace.  

This is definitely a cultural thing.  Chinese students never interrupt a teacher who has begun a class, especially if it’s not their teacher or classroom.  If they are late, they stand at the door and say, “May I come in?”  The teacher is then to respond by nodding his or her head.  Sometimes, the student just stands in the open doorway until the teacher notices him and gives him permission to enter.

Asking students to enter a classroom and steal chairs, even if the chairs are located conveniently at the back of a classroom, is very impolite and embarrassing.  I’m absolutely positive no Chinese teacher would deny them a chair, especially as we are all miffed by this chair dilemma, but these are Chinese students.  Taking a brave stance and initiative to go against custom is not exactly built into their systems.

In other words, they’d rather lie to me, their foreign teacher, and suffer standing for 2 hours than interrupt a strange classroom to clang, bang and drag out chairs.

Sneaking back to their standing places, my four girls positioned themselves behind their desks once again and seemed ready to endure the long stand.

“Did you find any chairs on the 5th floor?” I asked as the entire class sat expectantly, waiting for their response.

“Yes!  No chairs,” they lied. 

So I turned to Plan B.

Plan B seemed perfectly logical to me.  In America, if we don’t have chairs, we just sit on the desks. 

            “We’ll do like we do in America,” I announced enthusiastically. “Just sit on the desk.”

            Stunned silence.

            Those standing in the back didn’t move. I thought they hadn’t understood what I was saying so I walked back to demonstrate.  All eyes followed me as I made my way to the back of the room, picked up a student’s things, and perched myself on the desk with the book balanced in my lap.

            The entire room erupted into laughter. 

            “No!” a few of the students shouted while those standing tittered nervously. 

            O.K.  So obviously students sitting on top of a classroom desk is a cultural faux pas in China.   

After so many years of teaching in this country, didn’t I know that?   Guess not!

Plan C was to share a chair with another student.  This I had seen on many occasions where seats were not enough.  These young people are so tiny and thin, two rear ends on a chair would be like one rear end for the average American. 

While this solution was certainly more acceptable than the other, my four still opted to stand.

I’d done everything possible to help them out so I just let them be.  And, bless them, they did manage the entire time standing aside from a few squats, their heads popping up over the desktop,  toward the end of the second period.

As the week wore on, more and more students were having difficulty snatching not only usable chairs but desks as well.  I watched entire classrooms emptied of both desks and chairs for one period and then dragged back down the hallway by students needing them during another period.

            Peering into one room during a break, I noticed some very ingenuous boys had positioned the desks on their sides and were using them as chairs.  While sitting on top of the desk seemed out of the question, tossing one on its side and sitting on it certainly didn’t raise any eyebrows.  I’ve taken a mental note of this as a Plan D for next week’s classes.

            And most likely, I’ll really be needing that Plan D,  . . . . if there are any desks to spare, that is.  This weekend, the last enrollment of 400 freshmen are arriving with perhaps another 100 yet to trickle in.  Every year, the college submits the number of incoming students to the provincial government for approval.  This year, 2,500 were approved but only 2,000 arrived.  Much of this is due to the earthquake when many of the entrance exams were postponed to a later date, thus making freshmen enrollment in Sichuan’s smaller colleges late as well.

            Heaven only knows how those 400 students will be managing in our classrooms next week. If we’re short on furnishings now, we certainly aren’t going to be in great shape for receiving newcomers when Monday hits.

            Our newly arrived freshmen don’t know that yet, however.  Hopefully, all the preparations this weekend to make them feel at home will help ease their disappointment in our facilities when they actually start their courses.  Banners this week have been flying, welcoming new students to our college.  And tonight’s Friday evening, two performance events hosted by different departments are being held for our newcomers as well.  One is on the sports’ field and another near the entrance gate.  Stages have been set up, fancy sound and lighting equipment positioned, balloons tied together for decorations, and community sponsors used to pay for huge back-drops announcing the event.  These same sponsors, mostly for drink companies, have also set up their wares under tents to sell to the students.  The most popular sponsors are those that sell bottled drinks, such as flavored iced teas, juices, and soft drinks.    

            While it’s great that the students are able to find sponsors for such events, one does wonder why those same sponsors don’t consider a donation to the college, perhaps for something, like, might we say, . . . classroom chairs? 

            I’m guessing that any day now, a huge truck will pull up to our classroom building and be stacked with hundreds of brand new chairs.  The workers will begin unloading them, one by one, and hustling them into classrooms where they’re sorely needed. Who knows?  Maybe that will even take place this weekend, in time for my Monday afternoon class!  Wouldn’t that be great.

            I’m not counting on it, though. I’ll most likely be turning to Plans A to D come the beginning of the week.

            Anyone out there with a Plan E is welcome to send one my way.  Always pays to ready with extra solutions, just in case.

 

            From Luzhou China, here’s sending you a weekend “Ping An” (peace).   

           

 

  

Posted in Tales from The Yangtze River | Leave a comment