As Week 4 in Vientiane, Laos, comes to a close, one of my goals was accomplished: That of riding a motor scooter in the city traffic.

As mentioned before, public transportation in Laos is pretty sparse. Few taxies and no public bus system (either city or long-distance) make it virtually impossible to go anywhere unless you have a vehicle of some kind. Cars are one mode of transportation but the big one are motor scooters and motorcycles.

The Suntisouk (Peace) Language and Vocational Center (SLVC), with which I am affiliated, has 4 motorcycles available to staff but none are automatic. This makes for some difficulty for me, the “old lady,” whose last motorbike was an easy-to-operate, kick-start, 1983 moped which I rode from age 16- 23. At 23, I then headed off to Japan for my first overseas teaching position and that was the end of my riding career.

Fast forward now to Laos, where motor scooters are a must if you want to transport yourself along the rugged, beat-up alleyways and streets of this capital city.  I certainly can walk to the Center from my apartment complex. It only takes 25 minutes. But problems arise if I have teaching duties on the other side of Vientiane, or if I wish to go to church on my own, which is a 30-minute trek into the outlying countryside.

There are also shopping ventures needed for food pick-up. One market is only a leisurely 10-minute walk away but bigger supermarkets are located across town.

For 4 weeks, I’ve been relying on Modester, and her excellent motorcycle skills, to drive me around to and from the Center, church and even shopping. Her kindness in doing this whenever I ask has been greatly appreciated but there came a point where she did say recently, “Connie, when are you going to buy your own motorbike?”

“When I have practiced in traffic, with someone to follow ahead of me and make sure I don’t wreck!” was my response.

My practice session took place yesterday. Borrowing the bike of the current Center director, Angie, I was led by her adult son, Amos, to a distant lake for driving about. 

To get there, we started on back alleyways but eventually, I had to enter traffic with cars behind me, ahead of me and beside me, not to mention hundreds of motor scooters and motorcycles zipping in and out or puttering along next to me. Amos on his scooter had his eye on me in his rearview mirror. I had my eye on everyone behind me and in front of me as I nervously, gingerly braked with clarity and sped along cautiously.

Know what, folks? 

That saying, “It’s like riding a bike,” (meaning you never forget) is so true!

Within just 10 minutes, I was wondering why I had made such a big deal out of this business of driving a motor scooter in Vientiane. 

Here I am yesterday, entering the Center after our 50-minute tour about the city. 

https://youtu.be/fzHkdvfy-fw?si=rEPTHYAwbKVhue_j

Next Step: Shopping for a Motorbike

It’s an interesting process, buying a vehicle here. I’ve already quizzed Amos about what I should expect.

Automatics obviously are more expensive than those which are not. I am too old now to deal with shifting gears and want something easy: Just push the button, it starts, and brakes are on the handlebars.

Used bikes, such as the one I was riding, are available but then you do have to worry about maintenance and if it’s a good one. Used, which might run from $500 – $1,500, are iffy although there are so many listed on Laos websites, including Facebook. 

As one who expects to be here for at least 3 years, I’m going for the new one. Brands vary but if Japanese, American, Korean or Vietnamese, this will run me $2,000 – $2,500. (Thank you to all who gave me a little monetary gift send-off before I left. You will be responsible for my newfound freedom!)

Only Laos citizens are able to purchase vehicles so one of the local staff members will have to come with me. The license (which the seller will complete as part of the price and send in to the government transportation department) takes 2 months to be completed. The paperwork of the purchase is all in the name of my Laos purchasing friend. This seems to be the way things are done, with foreigners such as myself carrying around copies of the paperwork to show police if we are stopped.

Needless to say, police in Laos never bother stopping anyone, especially foreigners, unless there is a blatant violation of road rules. And I will say, it seems somewhat of a free-for-all, although I notice people drive so slowly and carefully that running through red lights doesn’t seem to bother anyone. And, yes, lots do run through red lights.

Are there any police in sight when this happens? Well, I’ve been here for 4 weeks and I haven’t seen a single police officer around except for a police car that was sitting outside of a government office building. From what I understand, we drivers are. pretty much on our own to be trustworthy enough not to run into or over anyone.

Having to Wait: A 2-day Conference and Teaching Term Begins

This next week begins our new teaching term at the Center. I will be teaching daily evening classes to primary students whose parents want them to have a good start in English. They’ve already been working through “Let’s Go” Book 1 so I’ll be leading them into Unit 4 beginning Monday.

Aside from normal Center duties, the 7 staff members (all Christians) at present are also busy dealing with a 2-day Christian conference which I will attend during the daytime. This will be happening Tuesday and Wednesday.  That will take up a majority of their time, driving to and from the distant meeting place at the church outside of the city. Without my vehicle, I’ll be holding on tight to the back motorbike of whomever I can catch a ride with.

My hope is that this coming weekend, someone will have time to come with me to the motorbike plaza to scout out what’s available and how much. 

Any occasion, you might ask, for my big purchase?

It’ll be my birthday!!! I’m turning 59 on January 12, Friday. What a way to celebrate, buying my first ever vehicle. 

I can’t wait! And to make it even more of a perfect celebration,  add to that the purchase of an office birthday cake, my first Laos birthday here, to share with the staff. (Don’t tell them! I want it to be a surprise.)

Signing off, from Laos with Love.